Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Laos 2009



Intrigued by a country in which I'd visited all of it's adjoining neighbors, Laos stood to be the final piece of the puzzle, to elude me in linking the Golden Triangle. The Bun Pi Mai, fast approaching would be all the enticement needed to take me to the already culture rich land.

Day 1. April 09, 2009 Vientiane, Laos.
3:55pm

Checked into the Soukchaleun Guest House a few hours ago, had a shower, then ventured around my neighborhood.

12:06pm
Interrupting my last log, was my foot, leg and upper back massage. Phon, the spa manager has help arrange my stay in Luang Prabang, for a small fee to cover phone expenses. Having previously work as a hotel manager, she's well informed, and sneered when learning that my guest house, said places could not be booked because of the Bun Pi Mai(Lao New Year).

Parked down at the side of the Me
kong River in one of the many restaurants, enjoying my first Beer Lao. Wondering why the Mekong looks more like a stream than a river. During the hot season I was told the river remains low, but next month it'll rise dramatically.
Visited Patuxai earlier, taking some pictures and roaming around the grounds; it reminds me a lot of The Arc De Triomphe in Paris.

The heat was draining, so I rested back at the GH(guest house) prior to going to a BBQ. Phon invited me to her bosses house for dinner, a healthy mix of westerners as well as locals; great time for a first night.

7:40am, Day 2.

Sweating buck naked on the top covers, I woke up numerous times last night, not realising how hot it would be with just a fan, having opted for a room without AC.

Just had banana pancakes, fruit & yoghurt plus a coffee in the Khop Chai Deu, a nicely terraced restaurant located near Nam Phu.


Wat Si Saket, Vientiane.

4:05pm

The day started with a brief stop to what is considered to be oldest Wat in Vientiane, with it's many Buddha images and old wooden Bangkok style
structure, Wat Si Saket is a must see.

With the sun rising fast, I chos
e the 100,000 Kip Tuk Tuk ride to Xieng Khuan(Buddha Park), knowing it would be much to hot roaming outside in the mid day.

Buddhist and Hindu sculptures throughout the park, gave it the feeling of a Spiritual Wonderland. A large pumpkin shaped concrete monument acts as a the center piece for this table setting. Entering through it's large mouth the structure has three levels, said to represent hell, earth and heaven. A center column rises from the ground, housing various relics; traversing the outer edge, leading up a few stair-cased passages, takes you to the top, where panoramic views of the park are available. A narrow ladder case also leads down from the top into a center chamber. Many small windows within the monument provide just enough natural light for navigation.

9:02pm

Exhausting day, after the Buddha Park then walking back from Patuxai; it wasn't the easiest walk back. Spending about $80USD, my flight is now booked for Luang Prabang.
Back at the Mekong for a Beer Lao and some grub.


6:52am, Day 3.
Much better sleep with the window open and the fan directed towards me last night. Will spend the day exploring, as well as a walk to the distant Pha That Luang before heading off to Luang Pra Bang.

5:01pm
at the airport. Hur
ried back to the guest house in the midst of a torrential down pour. Carrying my camera bag, equipped only with a paper thin plastic raincoat, I braved the rain, fearful of missing my flight. Wading through shin deep water, grateful I wore flip flops, I'd duck under shelter where available, in a futile attempt of keeping my camera gear dry. The distance was short but the rain fierce-today the Mekong's thirst would be quenched.


Luang Pra Bang's main street.

7:59pm in Luang Pra Bang.
En route to the Choumkhong Guest House, my taxi passed through a series of small, dimly lit, restaurant lined roads. My GH adjacent to a temple, fell back parallel to the main strip, linked by a short gardened pathway. Restaurants, internet cafes, guest houses, spas, coffee shops and crepe stands occupied the main street. Businesses flourished in this strongly influential french town, yet a peacefulness remained.

Before going out, I took some time a
ttending to my wet camera bag.

10:46pm

Earlier, sitting outside the Lao Ethnic Cafe & Dining, I enjoyed a traditional meal accompanied with Lao music. Just a mere three doors from my GH, the atmosphere and food were phenomenal on this temperate evening. I was greatly satisfied after the healthy meal of fish wrapped in lotus leaves, rice, fried kale & garlic and a Beer Lao.










Lao Ethnic Cafe & Dining.

9:47am, Day 4.

Was up at 5:00am this morning to see the monks procession. Dark and rainy conditions, made for some interesting, but difficult shots.



1:51pm

With the Pi Mai Lao fast approaching, I would like to do my sightseeing, prior to the festival, allowing me to focus completely. Today I've decided to head for Tat Kuang Si, waterfalls and upon returning, Wat Phu Si for sunset.

7:33pm

At the very average Coconut Restaurant having a tofu and vegetable curry.

The trip to the falls was disappointing in a photography sense, but was still a beautiful place to visit. A short hike took me up to Phu Si, where immense heat blanketed the large crowd as it waited in anticipation. An average sunset followed by a rampant mosquito attack as dusk set in had me hurrying back to town, dissatisfied once again.

8:16pm foot massage-in my attempt to beat the world foot massage record in 12 days.

7:25am, Day 5.

Rushing to get out the door this morning, it wasn't until walking down the darkened street, that a realisation was met- it was dark. Half asleep, I somehow managed to leave the GH an hour early for the procession.

8:07am

Found a wonderful little cafe(Scandinavian Bakery) on the main street. For only 30,000K, I enjoyed a coffee, juice, omelet, two scones and for entertainment, a nutty local dancing on the street.

For the second day, I met Chris, another photographer from Ohio during the morning procession. Traveling with his wife and kids, he sneaks out in the morning to shoot. Having captured a few strong images and a morning talk with someone interesting is a good way to start a day.

5:48pm

A long walk outside of town en route to Wat That Luang had me detouring more than one time. Almost having reach the temple walking, I saw an array of colored balloons billowing out the side of a large covered wooden structure. Curious, I trudged over finding a family, many of whom were kids. After a short photo session they poured 5 buckets of ice water over me, all in the New Year tradition. Being 30 plus degrees, it really felt good and with a few smiles I was on my way.

8:20am, Day 6. starting of the Bun Pi Mai in Luang Pra Bang.


With almost the whole country celebrating, Bun Pi Mai kicks off in April for three days during the hot summer season. Luang Pra Bang, Laos's most popular destination for the New Year, extends the festivities to seven days, attracting many tourists and nationals from around the country. A seemingly more gentle affair than the Thai equivalent Songkran, yet still the water festival highlights the holidays.

The first day, marking the last day of the old year, the Lao spend cleaning their houses and villages while also preparing water, perfume and flowers for the days ahead. Water, an integral element for Bun Pi Mai is used for washing homes, Buddha images, monks and for the entourage of vehicles and people engaged in the street festivities.

After a short boat ride across the Mekong River, I arrived at Hat Muang Khoun, where the locals building sand stupas decorated them with flags, flowers, white lines and sprinkled with river water to make merit. Sand stupas symbolise the mountain, Phoukao Kailat, where King Kabinlaphom's severed head was kept by his seven daughters in a cave. The daughters would perform yearly rituals at the cave to bring happiness and good weather.

Back on the beach children ran gleefully, throwing white powder and painting faces. Laughing and broad smiles painted a shoreline with fleets of boats coming in and out.


The second day of the festival, known as the "day of no day", means that it lies in the middle of the old and new year.

Having headed over to the quieter part of main street in the morning, I waited with my Ohio friend for the costume parade to come through. The procession began at Wat Pha Mahathat and continued down the main street to the main temple, Wat Xieng Thong. Colorful arrays of costumes were met by an over joyous crowd, water splayed through the air as the celebrations were in full flight. I would spend the day walking the streets, celebrating with the locals and trying to capture a few of those special moments.

The Pha Bang, a standing Buddha statue which is normally housed in the Royal Palace Museum, is brought to Wat Mai. Placed in front of the ordination hall during the Bun Pi Mai Lao celebrations, Pha Bang is bathed under a temporary pavilion through sluice pipes while on public display.

The evening held the Nangsoukhane pageant to crown the new Miss Bpee Mai Lao(Miss Lao New Year), which consists of seven contestants, each one representing one of King Kabinlaphom's daughters.

The third day marking the magnificent New Year, had the parade proceeding in the opposite direction back to Pha Mahathat.

Another morning of shooting the procession had me sitting outside Wat Xieng Thong with a young apprentice monk. Seng a 15 year old from the north, the elder of a brother and two sisters takes his studies at the Wat. After talking for quite some time, I began to ask him questions regarding the bathing of the Buddha. Indulging my curiosity, Seng offered to take me through the bathing rituals. Entering the temple we made our prayers in front of the Buddha. This was followed with some incense burning, more praying and finally standing on a small platform, 5 feet off the Wat's floor pouring the water. As it flowed down the 20 foot sluice pipe and over the Buddha housed in the pavilion, I felt a sense of understanding.

So after a long day of shooting, returning back to my GH accompanied by a short rest, I ventured back to the main street. This time would be without my camera; after being on the receiving end of the water,powder and wok soot for the past couple days, today would be a day of retribution.

Pha Bang was taken back to the Royal Palace Museum today, bringing Bun Pi Mai to an end.










7:14am, Day 9.

One last breakfast at the Scandinavian Bakery, before my mini van ride to Phonsavan, where the Plain of Jars await me.
3:41pm
The fast and furious ride from Luang Pra Bang had me feeling rather nauseated for three quarters of the journey. A 20 minute rest at a junction made for some solid images, as I wobbled around with my camera. Continuing on to Phonsavan my state worsened. Someone said "only 60 more kilometers"; at that moment, I thought that's it I'll never make it. Swallowing hard, with only a small bag as an option, I was close to having the driver to pull over. Miraculously we hit some fairly straight roads my condition improved, enabling me to enjoy the last bit of the trip speaking with some Vietnamese photographers.
Arriving to Phonsavan, Dan, one of the two English speakers in their group of four, suggested we stay in the Wild Orchid Guest House. Trang, the youngest and the only girl in the group, had shared in some conversation with me on the bus; so, I followed in deciding they would be great people to get to know. The other two guys, 60 and 70 year old's were extremely friendly, but we could not converse.









Dan, Trang, Myself, Giang, Anh.
The early evening presented us with the most amazing fiery sunset which had us shooting from the main drag. The colors were just brilliant, with layers of orange and red hues. We later went for diner getting to know each other a bit better.
5:46am, Day 10.
Getting well prepared, packing my gear as I'm expecting it to be a very hot day.
11:06pm
Thought about motorbikes, but we decidedly opted for an air-conditioned mini van. Our first stop was at the Plain of Jars site 1, where being the biggest site(over 250 jars) we spent a couple hours exploring.
The jars, mainly sandstone, range from 3 to 10 feet in height and can weigh up to 13 tonnes, still remain quite a mystery. Anthropologists and archeologists hold a theory that they were first used around 1500-2000 years ago as funeral urns or perhaps storage for food.
Due to the UXO(unexploded ordnance), the result of massive US bombardment during the Secret War, only sites 1,2 and 3 are safe to visit. The number of bombs(usually cluster), that has said to have been dropped, is a at a rate of 1 bomb per minute for a period of 8 years.
The rest of the day took us to sites 2&3, an old temple and finally to the Hamong village. Dan, a well recognised photographer, who's made numerous visits here over the years took us to a couple fantastic, off the beaten road places. Wonderful experience for me to have spent time with them, as well as to study their perception in capturing an image.

Being closed the first night because of the holiday, I was grateful to see the MAG(Mines Advisory Group) office open. T-shirts are $10USD and go towards de-mining, helping to save lives in many communities world wide. "MAG is a humanitarian organisation clearing the remnants of conflict for the benefit of communities worldwide. MAG is co-laureate of the 1997 Nobel Peace Prize."

Plain of Jars, Phonsavan.
10:24pm Day 11. Back in Vientiane.

A slight mind malfunction started the day off in a frenzy. Waking at 5:30am, I soon realised that I wouldn't have enough Kip to pay for my room as well as the bus. Holding a $100 USD note, of such a high denomination made it impossible for the hotel to change it. With Mr. Gan driving us to the bus terminal and everyone waiting, I could only hope...

Cementing my fear on arrival to the terminal was no currency exchange. Left with no option, I told Mr. Gan my problem, and he after a momentary thought, expressionless, rushed off telling me to stay put. Having previously been informed that three morning buses would be departing, I stood and waited. Not sure if or when Mr Gan would return; 30 minutes passed and already, two of the three buses had left, thoughts of helplessness crept into my head. Then to my great relief he returned with the exchange, directed me toward the ticket counter, said a friendly goodbye and ran off.

Standing less than 4 feet center of the ticket window, I waited. The line funneled and a frenzy ensued every time someone left the window. For 20 minutes, not an inch was gained, with a camera bag holstered on my front and backpack taking up the rear, mobility was difficult. A more assertive effort was going to be needed, for me to have any chance getting on the bus.

An western girl stood off to my right-also in limbo.
Asking where she was going, the girl replied "Vientiane", I offered to get her ticket. In response, she said her friend also needed one. I assured her it wouldn't be a problem.

It was then having bided my time, a person turned from the counter, revealing the smallest of spaces. Seizing the moment, I pushed with the legs of an NFL linebacker, fists clenched, my arms protecting my camera bag. I broke through like an ice breaker of the seas, parting the locals, who were resigned to my determination of getting a ticket. So close now! One final thrust was enough, allowing me to grasp the inside edge of the window with my right arm fully extended. The advantage, now belonging to me as the entire right hand side had been completely blocked. Diving through the open window head first, I handed her the money, saying "Three, Vientiane, three, Vientiane!!".

It was the most physically assertive I've ever had to be, without being violent. The girls and I were relieved to board the bus.

The 10 hour "VIP" bus ride began us on a fairly straight, paved road for about the first 30 minutes. Emma and Jess sat one seat back on the opposite side, of a bus full enough to require some plastic stools in the middle aisle.

Shortly after a quick stop for fuel 20 minutes in, a lady called to the front in Lao from behind my head. Fleetingly, a young man jumped from his stool and upon reaching the call, he began offloading plastic bags. My clairvoyance became immediately apparent. The first sound of retching at the back, caused a broad showing of hands; what had started as one person now turned into a chain reaction puking competition.

Now in the mountains, the driver threw the bus around as if it were a Ferrari, the roads with all the navigational difficulties proved harder than most F1 tracks. Raucous karaoke beats blasted from the speakers, song after song with the same melody. A welcome reprieve of Lao Eminem or the odd melodic Thai/Laos song provided quick sanity checks.

The middle aisle filled with plastic stools and supplies(flour/rice sacks), stopping periodically to pick up more people. Overloaded, the air conditioning broke, not able to handle the higher requirements; perspiring locals complained of the sauna environment while a blend of stagnant sourness hung in the air.

Throughout the journey, Beth, Louise and I spoke and occasionally would share a distasteful glance or two as the lady behind, continued vomiting.

Luckily...it was only 10 hours.

8:59am, Day 13.

The last couple days were spent eating, relaxing and going to the spa. Sharing a room with Beth & Lou , we also shared a few moments.

I left for the airport feeling blessed to have shared in some of Laos's richest traditions.

*Special thanks to my Vietnamese friends, Dan Huynh & Trang Nguyen for making my journey to Phonsavan, all the more memorable.
*All images above are all rights reserved by davidREPhotography.

Nepal 2008



As a child, with a vivid imagination and strong desire to explore, I'd always felt a need to visit the Himalayas. "Tin Tin's", Tin Tin in Tibet had etched his way into my mind, through those strongly influential years.

Finally, in my mid thirties, after so many years, I made the trip to Nepal and touched on some of those childhood desires. Considering a Nepal/Tibet trip at first, I upon further consideration, weary of the China Situation, chose only Nepal; Tibet wouldn't be far away. Preferring also to keep my trips from two to three weeks, there would not be enough time to cover that much area.

On October 31, 2008 I entered Kathamndu. 10 minutes after leaving the airport I was dropped off at the Shree Tibet in Thamel, right in the heart of chaos. In an area with small, windy-twisty streets, occupied by rickshaws, motorcycles, taxis and pedestrians, you must really keep your wits about youself, or face the prospect of a Nepalese hospital. Sounds are in abundance, loud music, overjoyed tourists and with trucks having the words "Horn Please" written on the backs of them, it all makes for a rather unharmonious symphony.

After checking in that night, I sat in my room. A simple room, with a single, dank ceiling light which hovered over my bed, casting a faint yellow around the room. Buddha images were drawn across three of the four walls, with the fourth consisting of two windows, showcasing the main drag below, a simple bathroom stood in the corner.
My routine of organising, pondering and a journal entry had been completed, so a good nights rest was in order.



Thamel, Kathmandu.
Day 1, 8:28am

Called my guide Anupam first thing this morning in hope of getting my trek organised as quick as possible.
A basic breaky of 2 fried eggs, 2 toast, coffee, juice & some porridge got me out the door and walking around my area.

It was high noon en route to Durbar Square, when Raju, a slender, middle aged man approached me. In past experiences with these situations, people usually want something, but not always being the case, I decided to appease him. The overhead sun was relentless, with no means of reprieve, so I took a walk and talk approach, still questioning his motive. After inquiring about my destination; Swayambhunath(Monkey Temple), Raju offered to take me, claiming that was the direction he was going. Assuming he was a guide, I offered him some money, but Raju refused, adamantly claiming he was from India and not a guide. As I shot for an hour on the vast, monkey riddled grounds of the temple, Raju, the non-guide guide, waited patiently.
Continuing onward to Bouddhanath, Raj led us from the grounds to a mini bus/van stop, where we would be met by local transportation. Sardines in a can, a term often taken with a grain of salt, would be spacious in comparison to the
30 person packed vehicle, but by western standards suited only for 15. Amusingly, stuffed in the corner with two kids perched on my lap, I felt content, climbing over the sea of locals after the 30 minute ride.

After a quick scamper around the grounds of Bouddha, Raju invited me
to meet his wife and daughter.

A short distance later, stood a small shanty on the outskirts of a village. Inside the tin walled domicile, lay a concrete floor with a fire pit for cooking and a lone bed, to which I was directed towards after a brief introduction with his family.

It was sitting there, watching his wife prepare tea, he began to speak of their troubled times. She carried through the motions, lighting the fire, heating water, as he delved deeper into his story. I listened intently until thoughts of the water wavered my concentration. Certain to be river water, it now sputtered at a full boil. Knowing a full 12 minutes of boiling was required for the water to be safe, an orgy of thoughts invaded my mind.

"Drink it! No, don't drink it!" interrupted Raju's rant about some shoe box. What was this "shoe box" anyways?With less than 10 minutes having passed, a tea cup was place into my hands, and, anxiously, doing the only respectful thing; I drank it.

My attention snapped back to Raju when I heard the sum, $300USD, flowing so easily from his lips. At that moment, my stomach churned, not from the tea but from his amateur swindling efforts which began unfolding. It was all suddenly, so clear. Asking for a "gift", not money, because apparently Raju, my non-guide guide, was too proud to accept cash. But a "gift"; which just happened to be this $300USD shoe box, would supposedly, as Raju explained, set their lives in the right direction. Feeling compassion for his family, I offered him a small amount, but once again he spoke only of the "gift", but then unveiled a further "gift" option; milk for his daughter and other necessities. I became slightly miffed, though in keeping my best poker face, thought, this guy probably had a hand in writing Ocean's Eleven. I knew, due to his impoverished situation, Raju wasn't about to give up on his scheme. Slugging the last of my tea, we left for the store.

Arriving a few minutes later, I watched as he pointed to this and that, directing the shop keeper to his needs. The pile of supplies grew, and when presented with the final tally, I stared at Raju in disbelief. I gracefully declined his lovely offer of this second "gift" option and placed my gift of...$10USD into his hands, smiled and departed for the Holy River.

I'm sure as he stood there, watching my back disappearing down the road, Raju would have wondered how many times I had seen Ocean's Eleven.

Bouddhanath

Day 2

Met with my guide Anupam, and Subash, my porter to finalise the trek. The trekking company, run by Killi, a hardened Nepalese man, was located at his house. Once the details had been completed we enjoyed tea and snacks over a long conversation; it was quick to see what a kind soul Killi was. His accomplishments plentiful, having summit ed Everest and with numerous amounts of work with Nat Geo and Discovery, he remains so humble.

I spent the rest of the day going over my budget, taking a break to fill up with some Fish Tikka and a nice cold Everest beer.


That evening I bumped into Raju again, as I was headed to meet some friends for dinner, just cementing my guide theory. Knowing that day still gave me an experience, good or bad, I gave him a pleasant smile and continued on to Elva's hotel.
After meeting we walked around looking for a place to eat, finding the Thamel House Restaurant
, quietly set in a courtyard, with traditional live music and dance. Candle lit only, the small hues of orange jumped off the very natural surroundings. A nice way to cap off a long day; possibly my last comforts for the next 12 days. Although her mom could only speak Mandarin, I really enjoyed their company; Elva translated much of our talking.

Day 3, 5:32am

Woke early wanting to give myself ample opportunity to lighten my self for the trek; those darn planes mess my system up every time!
10:13am Arrived in the Solukhumbu region, Lukla. A short flight from Kathmandu in a small plane, took us over the mountains and valleys, and finally a hard right bank through the valley had us landing on a very short and sloped runway set on the side of the mountain. It was comparable to landing a small model plane on a inclined treadmill. My heart skipped as the brakes grabbed and the whole plane pulled to the one side. 5 minutes later we were off the plane and another was landing-then another.


Phakding
2800m was reached by us at 4:45pm.
After a long day of hiking and trying to pass Porters and Yaks through narrow stretches, we finally settled in at Namaste Lodge. The meal of Dal Baht(Rice,Curry and Lentils) and tea was needed after the good day of exercise, providing protein, carbohydrates and some nutrients from the vegetables. Having only two single beds, we put them together so my guys could sleep better.


Namche Bazaar.
Day 4, 6:51am

Had an awful sleep last night and in waking I still can't take a crap! Took down 2 fried eggs, 2 toast and milk tea(better than weak Nescafe), to get myself started for the trek to Namche Bazaar.

Met Anirban,
a trekker from India this morning, and in sharing some stories he told me some great places to travel in his country. Nepal is his first solo mission so he had a lot of excitement.
Namche Bazaar 3480m. Arriving there at 3:42pm, we began to look for a place to stay but had to settle for a rather run down place. After putting my bags in the room, I began what would be my trekking routine for the remainder of the trip; wet wipes(for the body) and alcohol gel(for the feet).
The next day was a rest day or as they say, an "Acclimatisation day", which I was grateful for after the tough climb. Hiking across bridges suspended over green valleys and rivers provided a breather and some picturesque moments during the unforgiving 3 hour ascent.

With the change in altitude, came a change in temperature forcing me to purchase
d a long sleeved wind stopper. A dinner of Dal Bhat would be our meal of choice again.

Myself, Anupam, Subash
Day 5, 6:46am

The morning was very foggy in Namche as we led our way up the many stairs to the museum in our acclimatisation exercise for the day.
Returning, gave me the opportunity to take some pictures before retreating in a great coffee shop. Treating my guys, I too enjoyed a coffee and apple strudel while playing cards and relaxing.

The coffee and exercise did it's job
, bringing a huge smile to my face.


Porters.

Day 6, 2:21pm

Sitting here at the bakery in Tengboche 3870m, with Anirban. I'm in complete awe, as we sit surrounded by snow capped mountains. A casual ascent took us the bulk of the way, followed by a knee thrashing descent and finally a "breathtaking" ascent was required to reach Tengboche.

A large wood stove was the centerpiece of the dining hall, lined with tables and padded bench seating, where we ate dinner. Packed full of trekkers that evening, the place was roasting and had me stripping off as much as I could get away with.

Anirban
and I shared the room that night as accommodations were tight, while Anupam and Subash slept on the benches in the dining hall.

Day 7, 7:38am

I attempted to catch the sunrise, but slept through my alarm waking at 5:45. I only managed to catch a glimpse before preparing, for what would be an early start after breakfast.

9:34am I'm lost...

Around 10:00am, after two clicks in the wrong direction, I was reunited with my team. Frequently stopping to take pictures, I roam far ahead of them, not wanting to hold us up. After passing me this time and carrying on quite far ahead, trying to catch them, I zigged, while I should have zagged. By the time I found them, fatigue had set in so much, I could hardly make the last ascent to meet them. We settled in for some lunch and continued on to Dingboche.
12:55 Dingboche 4410m

Having come down with a flu the night before, the last part of the trip turned out to be one painful step at a time. My upper back felt like a nail was being pounded into it, causing me to take frequent stops. With all my energy having been completely sapped, I really didn't think I'd make it.

Day 8, 7:29am

Couldn't even make a journal entry last night. Getting into our room yesterday, I immediately laid down for a rest. My body was spent and even with a change of clothes and all the blankets over me, I lay shivering. Frustrated, I got up and went to wash some clothes and then did another short but taxing hike up a hill for acclimatisation. Arriving back at the room, even more exhausted and even a bit nauseated, I reluctantly ate half a bowl of Dal and drank some water.

I'm not feeling well; my self diagnosis, gas in my stomach from not crapping. Something about a rock and clay out house set in a field, makes it challenging. An insi
de squatter would be 5 star right now!! Am I asking for to much!?!

6:45pm Duglha 4620m. We got half way to Lobuje, but due to my poor state of health, we've decided to stay here for the night. Upon arrival, I was so spent, Anupam asked me if I would be ok to continue onwards after lunch. Prone on the bench, I snapped "No!!".
Sleeping solidly, I crashed out in the room for 4 hours only to wake up for dinner. The room was, I estimate 5x8 with one power saver light, having walls coated with a thin coat of white paint, dressed in a green golf Astroturf skirt for insulation.

The mushroom soup was fantastic(my favorite when I
'm ill) and I managed a bonus C after that. Played some cards with the boys after dinner and packed it in.
Day 9, 6:04am

Great sleep!! 15 hours in total and feeling very refreshed. It was so cold last night my pen ink froze, making this morning journal entry very difficult. I managed to stay warm by sleeping in all my gear including gloves and an extra pair of socks.
9:25am Lobuje 4928m
We started our day with a slow but steady hike up the moraine, followed by a moderately flat traverse for an hour to Lobuje; the first time in two days that I actually enjoyed myself. At 10:30am after taking in some food, Anupam suggested we push on. Claiming to be a slow 3 hours but with no big ascents, I agreed eager to reach Gorak Shep.

During our lunch, I noticed a few locals looking at themselves in a tiny mirror, which hung off a wooden beam in the dining hall. Being in the mountains, my appearance was the furthest thing on my mind, but since the mirror was there...
Upon a quick examination, I was transforming into a mountain man; dirty fingernails, little cuts on my hands, oily hair, very bearded and extremely tanned. I had also been sucking on a garlic clove which helps prevent AMS(Acute Mountain Sickness) for the past few hours, so trying to get a date, even wit ha Yak at this point, might be a little out of the question.
Gorak Shep.

2:59pm Gorak Shep 5180m
Made it! The dormitory or the dining hall were our only choices for sleeping. There are no comforts regardless up here, so in choosing the dormitory it didn't really matter. We hung around the dining hall for sometime drinking tea and recouping from the Lobuje lag-my body was recovering well.

Anupam's grandfather had been sick and shortly after arriving there and a brief phone call later, he had learned of his passing. He was very upset and Subash and I feel sad for his loss.
Still trying to decide on Kala Pattar and EBC(Everest Base Camp)
or just Kala Pattar. Not sure if I want to try and tackle both, being very taxing for one day.

Day 10, 6:31am

Subash woke up with a bad headache and wouldn't be accompanying us on the final ascent. To be safe we gave him Tylenol and left him there to rest. Kala Pattar is our only option now, as we need to start getting him down to a lower altitude.

10:21am
and we have just returned from the Summit of Kala Pattar 5545m. Absolutely exhausted as we left prior to breakfast. The ascent was more-less what I had expected, being a summit, but this didn't make me feel any less tired. The last nights sleep was non existent, due to high altitude and a temperate 0 degree Celcius room, not aiding the energy factor. We did manage to ascend in 1.5 hours, an hour faster than the average, though I felt as though we were crawling as opposed to walking at points. Once we summit ed, there were about 20 other people up there, 20 minutes later, it was only Anupam and I remaining. We took a short silence for his grandpa and after taking in the view we started our descent.

Subash was feeling a bit better when we returned. I made sure to eat a really high carbohydrate lunch in order to prepare for the long days descent.


2:42pm Duglha
On the descent we ran into Anirban in Lobuje. He mentioned they would be going a long distance today. I'm feeling rather refreshed after a four wet wipe bath, the alcohol for the feet, some fresh socks, underwear and a dry shirt.

5:13pm
in the dining hall and I just met Steve, Peter and Ian, all of whom live in Powell River and know grandma. What a small world!!

Day 11, 7:14am. Eating breakfast.


Mother and child with father off to the side repacking some gear.

4:16pm Sanasa
A long 8 hour descent/ascent, with only a stop for lunch has brought us here, to lovely little guest house, which I'm sure is just passed, by most trekkers. Our room has a window, which is framing the mountains and the moon; it should be a painting.
Highlighting my day, possibly even the trip, was a young family. Trekking on after lunch, we traversed our way along the mountain en route to the next village. It was at that moment, I came upon something so beautiful, so simple, yet so real. Fumbling for my camera, a mother and daughter stood before me, with the father nearby repacking their bags. The mother wearing a traditional headdress cradled her infant in mid afternoon sun.
After a short introduction, in a means to get a head start, she parted with us, leaving the father still packing the bags.
It didn't take long for me to figure out how quick she was and in an attempt to keep pace...
We scrambled down the mountain, at times running, the descent frenetic. I could go no faster, yet it was the mother and child leading us down the steep gradient. Then, sure I was going to catch them, they veered off on a shortcut and once again seeing their route, knew I'd still be second. With Subash hot on my heels and the mother/daughter team ahead, a single thought entered my mind.

I would not be taking home this years gold medal at the Sherpa Olympics!


Finally she slowed to attend to the baby, and a minute later the father had reunited. Anupam had been talking with the father the whole way down and learned that they were taking their daughter to the hospital, needing 8 hours on foot. Intrigued, I began asking more questions; the father had once been a porter, being a very hard life he turned to woodworking. During our short conversation with Anupam translating, they smiled continuously, as they answered questions. A family visibly with very little, yet everything. Heartfelt, I reached into my pocket and gave them a small gift of money.

Anupam later told me...how happy they were for the gift.



6:19pm


Sitting in a bright cozy room with three tables lining the walls. A panoramic mountain view presents itself much like a mural, while a small wood stove centered in the room, cooks our Dal Bhat.
My clothes ar
e sweat laden and strewn about the room trying to dry out, my fleece, the worst of the lot is spread across my legs in front of the wood stove.

We had a great home cooked meal accompanied with a glass of Chhyang(fermented rice wine), amongst some interesting company. While we ate, a 70 year old road worker spoke of how his wife is expecting a baby any day now. He has been building the roads for over 50 years now, financed by do
nations only.

Day 12, 6:33am. On our way to Namche.


9:34am we arrived at Namche Bazaar and got a place at Namaste Lodge, different than Phakding and not as nice. The trek over had been dusty and congested with Yaks, Ox and a lot of people. I passed the elderly road worker, making a donation as I went by.

Yak, Namche Bazaar.
10:42am Showered...
Trying to get the shampoo to lather in my greasy hair gave me plenty of time to think as I showered. After 12 days of being in the mountains my hair probably amassed enough grease to bottle and sell it, as fresh glacier oil. Potentially I could make millions...My sweaty shirt and sour socks were also thankful for the bar of soap.

Lazed around Namche that day sporting flip flops, having spent most of it playing cards in the Namche Coffee Shop. Not long after we sitting down, I heard the words "Hello my friend" play over my shoulder. It was Anirban, once again we crossed paths. The rest of the
day went by sharing stories and enjoying the luxuries of the bakery. Learning of quite a few deaths, while we were in the mountains we felt quite lucky. Many people being air evacuated out by helicopters with some accidents and some instances of AMS.

Day 13, 6:28am
Other than the pain still in my upper back, I feel great. Started today off with cinnamon porridge and an omelet in a chapati, washed down with a hot ginger/lemon tea.
11:25am we have now arrived back to Phakding, but this time at the sisters place See You, with Namaste Lodge being full.
After lunch we all sprawled out in the dining hall, playing cards and the guys took their turns showering. Enjoying the warmth of the sun beaming in thr
ough the glass, a afternoon siesta was also in order. The sister brought some terrible tea! Not wanting to be disrespectful, I drank two cups because she brought refills of the butter tea-liquid popcorn.

Day 14, 7:36am
off to Lukla.
Our flight is for the next day but we are really trying to get out now. The guys told me that you can be stuck for days here if a heavy fog rolls in, with no flights going in or out.

2:56pmStill here, though promising. It's purely insane here, everyone's fighting to get tickets.

4:35
On the plane, after much doubt we would be flying with the fog really factoring. One airline-crashing three weeks ago canceled their flight, so I'm happy to be on the plane.

Anirban and I proceeded back to Thamel, where I managed a room in the same hotel. We grabbed dinner and drinks after that; one and a half bottles of beer and was completely smashed! Walking was tough for me and I was most grateful he helped me back with the alcohol having a very negative effect on me. The next day due to some flight problems, Anirban hastily rushed off for the airport en route to India.

I had envisioned staying at the iconic Kathmandu Guest House, but it was full for the next two weeks. So upon packing my gear, I headed to my second choice, the Ganesh Himal, with a large room and bathroom overlooking a gardened courtyard, it turned out to be a great choice. The staff was friendly and the GH had free internet on the ground level.


Took a gander, shooting around Thamel today. The Road House Cafe, an excellent choice of lunch, supplied my savory craving of pizza and salad, a nice change from Dal Bhat.

Later that day I finally met Santosh, the guide and cousin of Anupam whom I was first going to use.
They took me around the main part of town and helped me buy a few things before heading off.
Chitwan

The next week was spent in Chitwan and Kathmandu. Chitwan, the animal reserve was expensive and a bit disappointing, though I didn't expect much from the beginning. I managed only to see a Rhino and a chicken, but the walks through the jungle were relaxing.

Upon arriving back to Kathmandu a strike had taken place. The bodies of two missing boys had been recovered and linked to a Maoist group. The government now headed by Maoist was under siege by a city wide protest. The protest continued into the next day before letting up.

Met with Anupam one last time in my last few days in Kathmandu. Having been invited to his house, his sister prepared, what would be my last meal of Dal Bhat for quite some time. Using all fresh ingredients it turned out to be a wonderful!

On day 21. To the airport.

I left Nepal that day, but Nepal has never left me.
* special thanks to my friends Anupam, Subash and Santosh & of course Tin Tin.
** the rights for these images are reserved by davidREPhotography.