Myanmar 2008

After a failed trip in 2006 with my friend JL, I managed a two week trip to Myanmar(Burma) almost two years later, but this time as a solo mission.

Day 1, January 29, 2008.

Arrived at the Three Seasons Hotel run by Ms. Hla Hla and immediately began my itinerary. As soon as I walked in and sat down, Ivan(employee) took all my thoughts and 30 minutes and 400USD later, my whole trip had been booked.

Initially upon researching for the trip, you learn to take the full amount of cash needed as Visa is not accepted and there are NO ATM's. So considering I took 800USD and managed to spend half of that in the first 30 minutes, I felt a bit nervous.

Around 11:00am I ventured out of the guest house and got my first taste of an awfully hot, Yangon. After already changing some money at my hotel for Kyat, I was approached with a much better rate on the street; still thinking about the 400US I just spent-that didn't make me feel any better. After walking around for short time Nai Ng(a guide) approached me, in hope that I'd pick up his services. At first I thought no, don't need one. But considering further and after a short barter, I took him on for 3US. When you're with a local, other locals don't bother you! So we marched around, first to the market. Took me about 10 minutes to find a chess set, which I loved. I would pick it up at a later time, as it was bronze and teak. Continuing on to China Town we sat down for some food in the dodgiest of places. It was a real find! The BBQ fish was the best ever and that was accompanied by some cauliflower and rice. Nai Ng would later drop me off by the shipping port and head home. I passed by Swedagon Paya entering a Pagoda next to it, saving Swedagon for the evening. A very long walk later, had me at Kandawgyi Lake. A wooden bridge over the water followed the shoreline taking me at least 30 minutes to walk. I was an amazingly relaxing place to visit. Due to lack of energy I took a taxi back to Shwedagon where I walked around, chatted with monks and in the end, provided a nice dinner for the mosquito's.
Upon returning to the guest house, they had prepared a yummy meal of coconut rice, chicken, fish, cauliflower and a really tasty tomato dish, to welcome the new guests. No better way to finish off the day, than a home cooked meal.

Shwemawdaw Paya, Bago
Day 2 6:00am woke up and had some breakfast before the drive to Bago.

1:30pm we arrived in Kinpun, only passing through Bago for a couple hours, stopping to visit a few temples. Many of the old ones had been restored and not by UNESCO standards, sporting a gaudy coat of bright gold paint. We stopped for gas at a station where the fuel was pumped by hand into a can, then with aid of a funnel poured into the vehicle.
The road over drove as smooth as a two rabbits in heat; I don't think, even they would be as dirty and bruised up as I am. Maybe just maybe, they should use some of that yellow paint to fill some pot holes...
Got a nice big corner room at The Sea Star Guest House for 15US a night. Going to explore around the village to search for some grub. Well made it as far as the Sea Star Guest House, which wasn't very far. Into my first Myanmar Beer, while pondering my budget, or actually lack of it. The beer is great!


Man in Kinpun.
10:07pm

Just had my ass served to me on a platter. After a bit of thought earlier regarding the hike up to Kyaiktiyo. The original idea was to hike up at 4:00am and get there by 8:00am. On a whim, I decided to take a taxi truck(a big flat bed truck with 4" wood planks running across for seating, encased in a box), this being the only transportation up. I was forced to sit like a lady with my legs together and off to the one side because the plank in front was so close; the guy in front, had half his ass sitting on my lap. The road up was really windy and contained more holes than a cheese grater, my ass was bruised.
Once we arrived to the terminal, I started my way up to Kyaiktiyo, also known as Golden Rock. The Lonely Planet said 45 minutes to get up there. For some reason I figured it would only take me 25 minutes(typical guy). It was a grueling, though short hike up, yet still taking me 40 minutes. Completely soaked in sweat after the many switch backs, I stood in awe facing what looked to be a big golden egg on the edge of the mountain. Equipped with my camera I was happy to see three stages, light, dusk and darkness. Being a major pilgrimage site, Kyaiktiyo is one of the most famous Buddhist sites in Myanmar. The energy was such a quiet energy, there was a real peacefulness. After a few hours, I returned to the ticket office to ask for directions to go down. The last taxi truck left when the sun went down, knowing this, my plan was always to hike down. Carrying water, an energy bar, a flashlight, long sleeve shirt, tripod and my camera. The locals at the booth took me to the top of the trail and assured me, getting lost would not be possible and I'd be sure to see many people coming up.
So the adventure down began. After a fast paced start, my common sense took over, realising a twisted or broken ankle out here would not be conducive in a smooth descent. Wondering just how dark it was, I decided to stop, turn off my flashlight and let my eyes adjust. Minutes passed, and still, only a black silence remained. With my heart pounding I continued to navigate my way down, over stairs and rocks, not wanting to waste time, stopping only for water breaks. The variety of stairs I encountered began to take a heavy toll on my knees while the camera and tripod fatigued my shoulders. Pressing on I passed numerous shacks, all of which had outside seating/sleeping arrangements; this was the only route to Kyaiktiyo which has accommodated thousands of pilgrims for many years. As it was late and my water supply running low, I stopped at one of the few open places to hydrate and woof down my energy bar. Sweat streamed off the tip of my nose and fingertips, quenching the ground where I stood. After gathering myself, I continued on for what felt like was an eternity, my mind raced, "you're lost, you're lost", playing repeatedly. Fatigue was taking over rationality, and passing only a few villagers and three monks throughout the journey, the assurance by the locals at the top didn't help coddle my doubt. "Suck it up", I repeated over and over. Finally...there it was, about 5 K's away, a string of lights. 2.5 hours later I was back in my room, relieved. The shower and tiger balm had me flat on my back, not long after returning. With the 11 k's behind me, I slept that night, once again, in the black silence - though this time with a quiet mind.

Day 3 6:30am
Had a few hours of shooting around the village this morning with Marion a German photographer whom I'd met over breakfast. She primarily shot images of people, and I was happy to have had the chance to have seen her approach with these people.poles with one wooden box on each end, costing .10US cents to pass.
The 4-4.5 hours back to Yangon had us passing through 6-8 check points or tolls, made of three
6:22pm Back in Yangon enjoying some good Inle Lake style food, in a candle lit restaurant; the whole city is run off generators, due to lack of hydro. The ice cold beer is going perfectly with my curry combinations, as I jot down the days event into my journal.
Shortly after...abruptly back to my hotel. As I was thinking what a great way to end the day, with dinner by candlelight, the power returned, uncovering a plethora of mosquito making their own meal out of my legs. For the 5 minutes which followed, I shook my legs, scarfed my food and slugged my beer-so much for relaxing.

Day 4, 7:20am February 01

Had a great rest last night, thinking here as I eat some breakfast about the next leg of the trip, being Inle Lake. Ideally some hiking around that area would be exciting, but the hike taking 2 weeks when I have three days, won't allow that. Indein is at the top of my priority list, which should only realistically, take a day trip to reach old 8th century stupas.

9:50amMs Hla Hla gave me a special rate on my room today, not knowing what's to come in the next while, it might balance out to 15USD per night for accomodations. I've changed a meagre 1360 Baht which I had laying around, into Kyat. This will hopefully avoid the alternative means of a visa cash advance, at a 7% charge.

1:42pmAfter a quick stop by the market to get my chess set, I'm now at the airport having just checked in. The driver took my purchase back to the guesthouse, being made from teak and bronze, it was to heavy to carry; I hope he's honest. With check-in taking only a few seconds, as identification wasn't required, I'm now just waiting for the flight.

9:15pm

Upon arrival to Heho, I wandered around the front of the small terminal in search of some transport to Nyaungshwe. Taxi drivers were converged on the only two westerners and deeply embroiled in negotiations. Quickly seeing an opportunity to possibly share some information or perhaps even a taxi, I cantered over to them. Within a few minutes we shared the taxi, on what I estimated to be a 30k drive, a far cry from my initial thought of 11. The 20USD was also cut to 7self, we opted to share again.

Now at Aquarius Inn, a tiny guest house with a really intimate cabin feel. A loungy seating arrangement occupies the area outside 4 of the rooms, strongly accentuated with a combination of wood and plants, it lay open facing a small courtyard. The rooms are decorated with a patterned rattan ceiling, wood planked walls and two Jelly Fish like mosquito nets hang over two warmly covered beds. The establishment is run by Atut, a young local having been schooled in hotel management. Having a firm grip on making this a successful enterprise, and the 7USD per night, makes this the best deal in Myanmar.

That evening I shared dinner with two Aussies, Emma and Jess, two gals I'd met back at the guesthouse. Was very impressed the tomato and avocadUSD, aiding in budget survival bid. During the ride, and learning that the Italian couple would also be traveling back the same day as myo salad and the gigantic umbrella shaped cracker which accompanied it. I washed that down with a Mandalay Red Beer, not as good as my regular Myanmar brewski, but still worth trying. We spoke of our travels and planned a boat trip to Indein over our food, before eventually heading back for a good nights rest.
Day 5, 6:51am
In the restaurant drinking a cup of red blend instant coffee, while I wait for breakfast and the girls. It was a cool night of 10 Celsius, spent cozily under the covers, with the hot drink reminding me with every sip.

Inle, fisherman.

10:50am
After negotiations for the boat went well, and a intricate series of turns later, passing enormous garden plots and stilt houses built upon of the lake, we eventually arrived to the market. With many types of hill tribes, all offering numerous crafts, this market was something to behold. Cows, horses and carts and broad smiles littered the plains, it was simple..surreal.

The main lake has many fishermen all of whom have the unique ability of fisherman ballet, as I can only describe it.

Highlighting the day was Indein. A roofed pathway, containing hundreds of wooden columns gradually leads you up the 1 km needed to reach Shwe Inn Thein.
A conglomeration of old stupas await at the top, though a quick walk around quickly reveals their meek future, with a mixture of old, and yes-that gaudy gold.
8:15pm

Going on the solo mission for dins tonight, feeling for a traditional Shan meal, I've popped in Htoo Htoo Aung, lying next to the guest house. Ordered the set menu, containing: tomato soup, chicken curry, bean crisps, vegetable stir fry and a avocado/tomato salad. 5 minutes flat and the food was gone.
8:21am, Day 6, February 03
Having a bit of a sleep in today, I've just sat down for a breakfast of scrambled eggs, toast and fruit, nicely finished off with a cookie and coffee. Thinking about how slow the time moves here, it's a very different world.
With the girls having left today for Mandalay, I've decided to do a 5 hour hike around Nyaungshwe.About a kilometer into my walk, first through town, and then down a long straight road, I continued to navigate my way to the Lwai Kin Village. On the desolate road, Banyan Trees provided a slight reprieve from the scorching sun, much to my relief. The only other occupant of the road, a young 19 year old boy came up on my heels. After a quick introduction, Min Min began to direct me on my walk, first taking us to a cave, next a lake and lastly a few villages.
We spoke regularly throughout the couple hours of hiking, with his English being quite fluent. Most of his questions were about the world, outside of Myanmar; common for the Burmese, due to the governments heavy refusal of western influence. Both of his parents worked in the forestry department, living together with his grandma and sister, he studied nearby but living in his school. Wondering why he didn't have school today, I asked, and he replied, "Because it was Sunday". I could only laugh.

Returning back to town after our jaunt, Min Min asked me to stop by his house to meet his sister and grandma. Inside, what I would call a middle classed home, I was most graciously met by his grandma and later by his sister. Sipping tea and eating snacks which his grandma had prepared we sat chatting. His grandma, not able to speak English, smiled and nodded continuously. After a good visit, I stood, gave a gratuitous thank you very much, in Burmese and headed for the door. Seeing me outside, Min Min told me how much his grandma wanted me to stay with them, just as I left for the Aquarius Inn.

With the mid afternoon pushing on and me closing in on my area, I reflected on what the girls had told me the previous day. Once a family here likes you-they treat you like their own.
6:37 at The Amazing, waiting to meet with Rubina and Gipetto.

9:40pm after a blind walk in the pitch black, due only to memory, I actually made it back. It had been a surprise to learn it was Rubina's birthday we'd be celebrating that night. The stimulating conversation and them treating, made for a great night.

8:10am Day 7 after reluctantly clambering out of bed, due only to the coldness, I sat talking to Atut over breakfast. Packed up and ready to go.

12:00 Noon with a bit of time to spare, I rented a bike and am headed 1 km to Shwe Yaunghwe Kyaung, an old temple located just out of town. With oval windows and many buddha set into the walls, the architecture of this temple is quite unique. Next door to the temple is the monestary, an old wooden structure occupies the center, with smaller buildings complete the outter region. The monestary is headed by a few elders and the rest, young students learning philosophy and monkhood.

Back in the lobby of the Aquarius for one last green tea, awaiting pickup from the Italian duo. It was a fantastic trip earlier on the bike, but being more like 3 km, I was happy I didn't walk. There is no way that was 1 km!
4:25pm in the air en route to Bagan.

7:30pm
Checked in to the May Kha Lar Guest House. The room is clean but with a very sterile hospital decor. I've book a horse and buggy for my first trip to the plains of temples and stupas tomorrow. A full day with the driver costing 12,000Kyat, should be a wonderful experience.

Enjoying a meal across from the MKLGH after some light exploration. The food, a bit average, is a bit pricier but the beer is cheaper-don't know if that's a good thing.
9:35pm showered and in bed. Looking forward to tomorrow, actually seeing Bagan in the light.
7:05am Day 8, Tuesday, February 5.

On the terrace, one floor above the street. Dressed in my light fleece, there's a slight crispness to the air, nestled by the sound of birds and the odd bicycle bell from the street below.
Eating my scrambled eggs, and preparing for what is to be a blazingly hot day. Not a cloud shares one inch of the brilliant blue above.

My thoughts wander...Life is so simple here, with no television, phone or computer, our senses are fully stimulated.

1:19pmIn Old Bagan for lunch at an all you can eat buffet. I,ve never seen so many dishes for one person, 15 different dishes crowd my table, with room for only a cold Myanmar Beer, wedged between a few plates! An immense variety: chicken, mutton and pork curries, fried fish and chicken, a tomato dish, stir fried cauliflower and cabbage, mixed fresh lettuce, okra, mini eggplant and cucumber. Small flavoring dishes of lentils, tofu paste and sprouts finished out the menu.

Aung Aung, my driver has been great. I don't think there's a better way possible to visit the temples, other than the horse and buggy; the roads are full of holes, but because of a fully cushioned carriage, it's comfortable and relaxing. The covered carriage is a huge reprieve from the unyielding yellow disc painted on the blue canvas. Cactus spreads amongst, the over 3000 temples, and with the dry aridness the feeling is similar to a western movie.
It's peak tourist season here, but having a Japanese journalist killed in a protest a short while back, you'd never know it. It saddens me...The only resource for these people in Bagan is tourism, and upon visiting the temples, groups of locals surround you, a desperation in their faces, you feel helpless-you can only buy from so many people. Unlike Inle, fishing and farming being alternate means, these people only have us.
9:49pmShowered and looking over some photos. Aung Aung has offered 5-7 K's to take me back out for sunset tomorrow, having not really taking many sunset shots tonight.

Emma and Jess were here when I got back, and after sharing some food and stories we decided to get some rest.
7:02am Day 9.
In a took and fleece, organising some of yesterdays shots. Also going over my budget, which is looking a whole lot better. I've also booked a bungalow at Ngapali, my next destination on the coast, reccomended by Ms. Cho. figuring on a walk around town today.

1:53pmThe start of my walk had me bumping into Zaw Win, an employee at the MKLGH. As the locals do, he began to walk with me eventually taking me to a distant, three temples through the burning desert, none of which popular amongst tourists. The most distant temple stood out the most. Sandstone carvings, graced the temple and inside, oval window imprints housing old buddhas made for a checker board image on the walls. An intricate set of tunnels was introduced, though unlike now, used to lead on for countless miles; surprisingly these tunnels had a very high ceiling, not requiring me to bend forwards.
A visit to Zaw Wins, revealed a bamboo thatched house built on a small plot of farmland. Thatched bamboo piles, evidence of the family business, occupy a couple areas of the yard, while chickens and other animals roamed freely. After tea and snacks, I left for the guesthouse.



Bagan from temple 394.

11:00pmAn late afternoon with AA took me to Shwizagon Pagoda for a quick 15 minutes of shooting. He then insisted on treating me to a milk tea and some potato/onion samosas in a cafe facing the main street. Flies were in abundance, but just seemed to add to an already vibrant atmosphere.

Set up for the sunset shot at 394, the temple number recommended by the guest house and got a beautiful shot of the temples highlighting the plains. After an arduous scramble up, the 360 degree view from the top was magnificent, and well worth the 5000K to return.
After meeting me at 394, the girls and I stopped at A Little Bit of Bagan, where we enjoyed a great meal, before returning rather late.
5:39am Day 10. Don't know why I just woke up-but I'm going back to bed. It's been a intriguing place to visit, but I'm ready to leave Bagan.

8:40am on the plane. A rather strange flight path has me flying east 20-40 minutes, then back west for 1 hour.

11:36am
As much as I have a disdain for some tourists, I really feel bad for the locals; heck I'd like to see some foreigners. I managed to get my room down from 20USD per night to 15USD. Normally you wouldn't get a room here, nevermind a discount, at this time of year. I'm settled into a small and slightly run down bungalow right on the beach, called Lin Thar Oo Lodge.

8:08pm
A late afternoon walk had me returning from a 3 Kilometer stroll down Ngapali's pristine sand beach. A fishing village at the far end, lay about 5 K's from the lodge, having only about 10 resorts in between. Disheartened vendors, having much to sell with so few tourists, avoided the heat by sitting under their umbrellas.

Intercepting me, had been a fast approaching mid-40's fisherman. Taking me slightly off guard, he in one motion grasped hold of both my hands, pulling me towards him muttering, " You're so beautiful". A denseness of alcohol accompanied his words, causing my head to reel back.
With his gaze fixed on me, "Chucky" the fisherman's sinewy hands tightened, and more words followed; words of which I had no inkling of comprehending.

In what could be Houdini's final act, I made an assertive effort to free my hands, but in countering, swiftly releasing my right hand, he thrust a ring on my left pinkie finger.
Chucky's small dark eyes, glancing away for only that split second , once again met mine.
"Good luck my friend", he said, netting me with a quick hug. A second later he sped off into the dusk...leaving me wondering.

Hastily pulling the ring off my finger, I continued down the beach examining the eerie gift, a thinly gilded bronze ring with indiscernible symbols.

Returning to my bungalow, a nail protruding from the outside porch wall made a temporary home for my unappreciated gift. That evening I went to sleep, not being overly superstitious, but admitting that ordeal gave me a case of the hoobijoobies. A fierce wind screamed that night, entering my room through tiny cracks, scattering my sleep- Chucky was near.

After a talk with a local boat captain the next day, I learned that many of the heavily drinking fishermen also practice black magic; he suggested I get rid of it. I left at that moment, having had an epiphany. Returning to my bungalow, I rummaged through my bag in search of a finger sized specimen of fossilized wood which I picked up in Bagan. Snugly winding the ring onto the rock, feeling that it would weight it nicely, I then walked it down to the waters edge and in saying goodbye...

We both rested well in our beds that night.
Ngapali Beach.
8:22am, Day 11.
Had an incredible meal at Excellence Seafood Restaurant last night. BBQ whole Red Snapper, stir fried vegetables and my absolute favorite, tomato/avocado salad, with fresh fruit for dessert and a cold Myanmar Beer. All this was less than $5.50USD.
A morning walk on the beach collecting shells has my appetite up for the buffet breakfast awaiting.

10:43am laying on the beach in the wake of my mostly fruit consumed meal. I do notice a few more tourists today.

4:13pm

A day of big numbers had me visiting the distant 5-6 kilometer fishing village. The introduction was football sized, field of fish drying in the sun. Blanketing the sand, was first a layer of straw, netting and topping it off, small fish. Scads of fishing boats, clad with ornate strings of light bulbs covered the shore line.

Gleeful kids armed with nets, ran amuck, weaving around the many fish heads strewn along the shore. Some approached in an effort to say hi, one boy gave me shells, while a few others asked for money. Women hovering over the nets, shoveled fish with their hands, the men preparing the boats for another long night roamed about.

A palm tree briefly provided some shade, as I spoke briefly to the ground level occupants. My few verses of Burmese had them smiling and me on my way.

6:53pm tried Best Friend Restaurant. After criticising the avocado salad for being to salty, I patiently waited-a bit to long for the main. When it did arrive, a healthy sized piece of Barracuda, two shrimp skewers, two squid skewers and a miniature crab warmed my plate. All this, plus my beer for the astoundingly low price of 3500 Kyat, cheaper than Excellence. I'm forced to give the Siskel & Ebert to both establishments.

8:02am, Day 12. Enjoying my last breakfast in Ngapali, in preparation for my flight back to Yangon.

12:15One last avocado/tomato salad and a cold beer at Excellence, followed by a short rest under a shady palm and I'm waiting for my ride to the airport.

The last couple days were spent exploring Yangon, eating and a final visit to Sule Pagoda. With many street hawkers, betel stands and pagodas it's such a culture rich city.

Day 14, I carried my chess set back to the airport, knowing I'll return...

*Special thanks to Ms. Hla Hla @ the Three Seasons Guest House, Yangon as well as Atut @ the Aquarius Inn, Nyaungshwe.*The above images are all rights reserved by davidREPhotography.