Laos 2009

Intrigued by a country in which I'd visited all of it's adjoining neighbors, Laos stood to be the final piece of the puzzle, to elude me in linking the Golden Triangle. The Bun Pi Mai, fast approaching would be all the enticement needed to take me to the already culture rich land.

Day 1. April 09, 2009 Vientiane, Laos.
3:55pm

Checked into the Soukchaleun Guest House a few hours ago, had a shower, then ventured around my neighborhood.

12:06pm
Interrupting my last log, was my foot, leg and upper back massage. Phon, the spa manager has help arrange my stay in Luang Prabang, for a small fee to cover phone expenses. Having previously work as a hotel manager, she's well informed, and sneered when learning that my guest house, said places could not be booked because of the Bun Pi Mai(Lao New Year).

Parked down at the side of the Mekong River in one of the many restaurants, enjoying my first Beer Lao. Wondering why the Mekong looks more like a stream than a river. During the hot season I was told the river remains low, but next month it'll rise dramatically.
Visited Patuxai earlier, taking some pictures and roaming around the grounds; it reminds me a lot of The Arc De Triomphe in Paris.

The heat was draining, so I rested back at the GH(guest house) prior to going to a BBQ. Phon invited me to her bosses house for dinner, a healthy mix of westerners as well as locals; great time for a first night.

7:40am, Day 2.

Sweating buck naked on the top covers, I woke up numerous times last night, not realising how hot it would be with just a fan, having opted for a room without AC.

Just had banana pancakes, fruit & yoghurt plus a coffee in the Khop Chai Deu, a nicely terraced restaurant located near Nam Phu.


Wat Si Saket, Vientiane.

4:05pm

The day started with a brief stop to what is considered to be oldest Wat in Vientiane, with it's many Buddha images and old wooden Bangkok style structure, Wat Si Saket is a must see.

With the sun rising fast, I chose the 100,000 Kip Tuk Tuk ride to Xieng Khuan(Buddha Park), knowing it would be much to hot roaming outside in the mid day.

Buddhist and Hindu sculptures throughout the park, gave it the feeling of a Spiritual Wonderland. A large pumpkin shaped concrete monument acts as a the center piece for this table setting. Entering through it's large mouth the structure has three levels, said to represent hell, earth and heaven. A center column rises from the ground, housing various relics; traversing the outer edge, leading up a few stair-cased passages, takes you to the top, where panoramic views of the park are available. A narrow ladder case also leads down from the top into a center chamber. Many small windows within the monument provide just enough natural light for navigation.

9:02pm

Exhausting day, after the Buddha Park then walking back from Patuxai; it wasn't the easiest walk back. Spending about $80USD, my flight is now booked for Luang Prabang.
Back at the Mekong for a Beer Lao and some grub.

6:52am, Day 3.
Much better sleep with the window open and the fan directed towards me last night. Will spend the day exploring, as well as a walk to the distant Pha That Luang before heading off to Luang Pra Bang.

5:01pm at the airport. Hurried back to the guest house in the midst of a torrential down pour. Carrying my camera bag, equipped only with a paper thin plastic raincoat, I braved the rain, fearful of missing my flight. Wading through shin deep water, grateful I wore flip flops, I'd duck under shelter where available, in a futile attempt of keeping my camera gear dry. The distance was short but the rain fierce-today the Mekong's thirst would be quenched.


Luang Pra Bang's main street.

7:59pm in Luang Pra Bang.
En route to the Choumkhong Guest House, my taxi passed through a series of small, dimly lit, restaurant lined roads. My GH adjacent to a temple, fell back parallel to the main strip, linked by a short gardened pathway. Restaurants, internet cafes, guest houses, spas, coffee shops and crepe stands occupied the main street. Businesses flourished in this strongly influential french town, yet a peacefulness remained.

Before going out, I took some time attending to my wet camera bag.

10:46pm

Earlier, sitting outside the Lao Ethnic Cafe & Dining, I enjoyed a traditional meal accompanied with Lao music. Just a mere three doors from my GH, the atmosphere and food were phenomenal on this temperate evening. I was greatly satisfied after the healthy meal of fish wrapped in lotus leaves, rice, fried kale & garlic and a Beer Lao.










Lao Ethnic Cafe & Dining.

9:47am, Day 4.

Was up at 5:00am this morning to see the monks procession. Dark and rainy conditions, made for some interesting, but difficult shots.



1:51pm

With the Pi Mai Lao fast approaching, I would like to do my sightseeing, prior to the festival, allowing me to focus completely. Today I've decided to head for Tat Kuang Si, waterfalls and upon returning, Wat Phu Si for sunset.

7:33pm

At the very average Coconut Restaurant having a tofu and vegetable curry.

The trip to the falls was disappointing in a photography sense, but was still a beautiful place to visit. A short hike took me up to Phu Si, where immense heat blanketed the large crowd as it waited in anticipation. An average sunset followed by a rampant mosquito attack as dusk set in had me hurrying back to town, dissatisfied once again.

8:16pm foot massage-in my attempt to beat the world foot massage record in 12 days.

7:25am, Day 5.

Rushing to get out the door this morning, it wasn't until walking down the darkened street, that a realisation was met- it was dark. Half asleep, I somehow managed to leave the GH an hour early for the procession.

8:07am

Found a wonderful little cafe(Scandinavian Bakery) on the main street. For only 30,000K, I enjoyed a coffee, juice, omelet, two scones and for entertainment, a nutty local dancing on the street.

For the second day, I met Chris, another photographer from Ohio during the morning procession. Traveling with his wife and kids, he sneaks out in the morning to shoot. Having captured a few strong images and a morning talk with someone interesting is a good way to start a day.

5:48pm

A long walk outside of town en route to Wat That Luang had me detouring more than one time. Almost having reach the temple walking, I saw an array of colored balloons billowing out the side of a large covered wooden structure. Curious, I trudged over finding a family, many of whom were kids. After a short photo session they poured 5 buckets of ice water over me, all in the New Year tradition. Being 30 plus degrees, it really felt good and with a few smiles I was on my way.

8:20am, Day 6. starting of the Bun Pi Mai in Luang Pra Bang.


With almost the whole country celebrating, Bun Pi Mai kicks off in April for three days during the hot summer season. Luang Pra Bang, Laos's most popular destination for the New Year, extends the festivities to seven days, attracting many tourists and nationals from around the country. A seemingly more gentle affair than the Thai equivalent Songkran, yet still the water festival highlights the holidays.

The first day, marking the last day of the old year, the Lao spend cleaning their houses and villages while also preparing water, perfume and flowers for the days ahead. Water, an integral element for Bun Pi Mai is used for washing homes, Buddha images, monks and for the entourage of vehicles and people engaged in the street festivities.

After a short boat ride across the Mekong River, I arrived at Hat Muang Khoun, where the locals building sand stupas decorated them with flags, flowers, white lines and sprinkled with river water to make merit. Sand stupas symbolise the mountain, Phoukao Kailat, where King Kabinlaphom's severed head was kept by his seven daughters in a cave. The daughters would perform yearly rituals at the cave to bring happiness and good weather.

Back on the beach children ran gleefully, throwing white powder and painting faces. Laughing and broad smiles painted a shoreline with fleets of boats coming in and out.


The second day of the festival, known as the "day of no day", means that it lies in the middle of the old and new year.

Having headed over to the quieter part of main street in the morning, I waited with my Ohio friend for the costume parade to come through. The procession began at Wat Pha Mahathat and continued down the main street to the main temple, Wat Xieng Thong. Colorful arrays of costumes were met by an over joyous crowd, water splayed through the air as the celebrations were in full flight. I would spend the day walking the streets, celebrating with the locals and trying to capture a few of those special moments.

The Pha Bang, a standing Buddha statue which is normally housed in the Royal Palace Museum, is brought to Wat Mai. Placed in front of the ordination hall during the Bun Pi Mai Lao celebrations, Pha Bang is bathed under a temporary pavilion through sluice pipes while on public display.

The evening held the Nangsoukhane pageant to crown the new Miss Bpee Mai Lao(Miss Lao New Year), which consists of seven contestants, each one representing one of King Kabinlaphom's daughters.

The third day marking the magnificent New Year, had the parade proceeding in the opposite direction back to Pha Mahathat.

Another morning of shooting the procession had me sitting outside Wat Xieng Thong with a young apprentice monk. Seng a 15 year old from the north, the elder of a brother and two sisters takes his studies at the Wat. After talking for quite some time, I began to ask him questions regarding the bathing of the Buddha. Indulging my curiosity, Seng offered to take me through the bathing rituals. Entering the temple we made our prayers in front of the Buddha. This was followed with some incense burning, more praying and finally standing on a small platform, 5 feet off the Wat's floor pouring the water. As it flowed down the 20 foot sluice pipe and over the Buddha housed in the pavilion, I felt a sense of understanding.

So after a long day of shooting, returning back to my GH accompanied by a short rest, I ventured back to the main street. This time would be without my camera; after being on the receiving end of the water,powder and wok soot for the past couple days, today would be a day of retribution.

Pha Bang was taken back to the Royal Palace Museum today, bringing Bun Pi Mai to an end.










7:14am, Day 9.

One last breakfast at the Scandinavian Bakery, before my mini van ride to Phonsavan, where the Plain of Jars await me.

3:41pm

The fast and furious ride from Luang Pra Bang had me feeling rather nauseated for three quarters of the journey. A 20 minute rest at a junction made for some solid images, as I wobbled around with my camera. Continuing on to Phonsavan my state worsened. Someone said "only 60 more kilometers"; at that moment, I thought that's it I'll never make it. Swallowing hard, with only a small bag as an option, I was close to having the driver to pull over. Miraculously we hit some fairly straight roads my condition improved, enabling me to enjoy the last bit of the trip speaking with some Vietnamese photographers.
Arriving to Phonsavan, Dan, one of the two English speakers in their group of four, suggested we stay in the Wild Orchid Guest House. Trang, the youngest and the only girl in the group, had shared in some conversation with me on the bus; so, I followed in deciding they would be great people to get to know. The other two guys, 60 and 70 year old's were extremely friendly, but we could not converse.









Dan, Trang, Myself, Giang, Anh.
The early evening presented us with the most amazing fiery sunset which had us shooting from the main drag. The colors were just brilliant, with layers of orange and red hues. We later went for diner getting to know each other a bit better.

5:46am, Day 10.

Getting well prepared, packing my gear as I'm expecting it to be a very hot day.

11:06pm

Thought about motorbikes, but we decidedly opted for an air-conditioned mini van. Our first stop was at the Plain of Jars site 1, where being the biggest site(over 250 jars) we spent a couple hours exploring.
The jars, mainly sandstone, range from 3 to 10 feet in height and can weigh up to 13 tonnes, still remain quite a mystery. Anthropologists and archeologists hold a theory that they were first used around 1500-2000 years ago as funeral urns or perhaps storage for food.
Due to the UXO(unexploded ordnance), the result of massive US bombardment during the Secret War, only sites 1,2 and 3 are safe to visit. The number of bombs(usually cluster), that has said to have been dropped, is a at a rate of 1 bomb per minute for a period of 8 years.
The rest of the day took us to sites 2&3, an old temple and finally to the Hamong village. Dan, a well recognised photographer, who's made numerous visits here over the years took us to a couple fantastic, off the beaten road places. Wonderful experience for me to have spent time with them, as well as to study their perception in capturing an image.

Being closed the first night because of the holiday, I was grateful to see the MAG(Mines Advisory Group) office open. T-shirts are $10USD and go towards de-mining, helping to save lives in many communities world wide. "MAG is a humanitarian organisation clearing the remnants of conflict for the benefit of communities worldwide. MAG is co-laureate of the 1997 Nobel Peace Prize."

Plain of Jars, Phonsavan.
10:24pm Day 11. Back in Vientiane.

A slight mind malfunction started the day off in a frenzy. Waking at 5:30am, I soon realised that I wouldn't have enough Kip to pay for my room as well as the bus. Holding a $100 USD note, of such a high denomination made it impossible for the hotel to change it. With Mr. Gan driving us to the bus terminal and everyone waiting, I could only hope...

Cementing my fear on arrival to the terminal was no currency exchange. Left with no option, I told Mr. Gan my problem, and he after a momentary thought, expressionless, rushed off telling me to stay put. Having previously been informed that three morning buses would be departing, I stood and waited. Not sure if or when Mr Gan would return; 30 minutes passed and already, two of the three buses had left, thoughts of helplessness crept into my head. Then to my great relief he returned with the exchange, directed me toward the ticket counter, said a friendly goodbye and ran off.

Standing less than 4 feet center of the ticket window, I waited. The line funneled and a frenzy ensued every time someone left the window. For 20 minutes, not an inch was gained, with a camera bag holstered on my front and backpack taking up the rear, mobility was difficult. A more assertive effort was going to be needed, for me to have any chance getting on the bus.

An western girl stood off to my right-also in limbo.
Asking where she was going, the girl replied "Vientiane", I offered to get her ticket. In response, she said her friend also needed one. I assured her it wouldn't be a problem.

It was then having bided my time, a person turned from the counter, revealing the smallest of spaces. Seizing the moment, I pushed with the legs of an NFL linebacker, fists clenched, my arms protecting my camera bag. I broke through like an ice breaker of the seas, parting the locals, who were resigned to my determination of getting a ticket. So close now! One final thrust was enough, allowing me to grasp the inside edge of the window with my right arm fully extended. The advantage, now belonging to me as the entire right hand side had been completely blocked. Diving through the open window head first, I handed her the money, saying "Three, Vientiane, three, Vientiane!!".

It was the most physically assertive I've ever had to be, without being violent. The girls and I were relieved to board the bus.

The 10 hour "VIP" bus ride began us on a fairly straight, paved road for about the first 30 minutes. Emma and Jess sat one seat back on the opposite side, of a bus full enough to require some plastic stools in the middle aisle.

Shortly after a quick stop for fuel 20 minutes in, a lady called to the front in Lao from behind my head. Fleetingly, a young man jumped from his stool and upon reaching the call, he began offloading plastic bags. My clairvoyance became immediately apparent. The first sound of retching at the back, caused a broad showing of hands; what had started as one person now turned into a chain reaction puking competition.

Now in the mountains, the driver threw the bus around as if it were a Ferrari, the roads with all the navigational difficulties proved harder than most F1 tracks. Raucous karaoke beats blasted from the speakers, song after song with the same melody. A welcome reprieve of Lao Eminem or the odd melodic Thai/Laos song provided quick sanity checks.

The middle aisle filled with plastic stools and supplies(flour/rice sacks), stopping periodically to pick up more people. Overloaded, the air conditioning broke, not able to handle the higher requirements; perspiring locals complained of the sauna environment while a blend of stagnant sourness hung in the air.

Throughout the journey, Beth, Louise and I spoke and occasionally would share a distasteful glance or two as the lady behind, continued vomiting.

Luckily...it was only 10 hours.

8:59am, Day 13.

The last couple days were spent eating, relaxing and going to the spa. Sharing a room with Beth & Lou , we also shared a few moments.

I left for the airport feeling blessed to have shared in some of Laos's richest traditions.
*Special thanks to my Vietnamese friends, Dan Huynh & Trang Nguyen for making my journey to Phonsavan, all the more memorable.
*All images above are all rights reserved by davidREPhotography.