Nepal 2008

As a child, with a vivid imagination and strong desire to explore, I'd always felt a need to visit the Himalayas. "Tin Tin's", Tin Tin in Tibet had etched his way into my mind, through those strongly influential years.

Finally, in my mid thirties, after so many years, I made the trip to Nepal and touched on some of those childhood desires. Considering a Nepal/Tibet trip at first, I upon further consideration, weary of the China Situation, chose only Nepal; Tibet wouldn't be far away. Preferring also to keep my trips from two to three weeks, there would not be enough time to cover that much area.

On October 31, 2008 I entered Kathamndu. 10 minutes after leaving the airport I was dropped off at the Shree Tibet in Thamel, right in the heart of chaos. In an area with small, windy-twisty streets, occupied by rickshaws, motorcycles, taxis and pedestrians, you must really keep your wits about youself, or face the prospect of a Nepalese hospital. Sounds are in abundance, loud music, overjoyed tourists and with trucks having the words "Horn Please" written on the backs of them, it all makes for a rather unharmonious symphony.

After checking in that night, I sat in my room. A simple room, with a single, dank ceiling light which hovered over my bed, casting a faint yellow around the room. Buddha images were drawn across three of the four walls, with the fourth consisting of two windows, showcasing the main drag below, a simple bathroom stood in the corner.
My routine of organising, pondering and a journal entry had been completed, so a good nights rest was in order.


Thamel, Kathmandu.
Day 1, 8:28am

Called my guide Anupam first thing this morning in hope of getting my trek organised as quick as possible.
A basic breaky of 2 fried eggs, 2 toast, coffee, juice & some porridge got me out the door and walking around my area.

It was high noon en route to Durbar Square, when Raju, a slender, middle aged man approached me. In past experiences with these situations, people usually want something, but not always being the case, I decided to appease him. The overhead sun was relentless, with no means of reprieve, so I took a walk and talk approach, still questioning his motive. After inquiring about my destination; Swayambhunath(Monkey Temple), Raju offered to take me, claiming that was the direction he was going. Assuming he was a guide, I offered him some money, but Raju refused, adamantly claiming he was from India and not a guide. As I shot for an hour on the vast, monkey riddled grounds of the temple, Raju, the non-guide guide, waited patiently.
Continuing onward to Bouddhanath, Raj led us from the grounds to a mini bus/van stop, where we would be met by local transportation. Sardines in a can, a term often taken with a grain of salt, would be spacious in comparison to the 30 person packed vehicle, but by western standards suited only for 15. Amusingly, stuffed in the corner with two kids perched on my lap, I felt content, climbing over the sea of locals after the 30 minute ride.

After a quick scamper around the grounds of Bouddha, Raju invited me to meet his wife and daughter.

A short distance later, stood a small shanty on the outskirts of a village. Inside the tin walled domicile, lay a concrete floor with a fire pit for cooking and a lone bed, to which I was directed towards after a brief introduction with his family.

It was sitting there, watching his wife prepare tea, he began to speak of their troubled times. She carried through the motions, lighting the fire, heating water, as he delved deeper into his story. I listened intently until thoughts of the water wavered my concentration. Certain to be river water, it now sputtered at a full boil. Knowing a full 12 minutes of boiling was required for the water to be safe, an orgy of thoughts invaded my mind.

"Drink it! No, don't drink it!" interrupted Raju's rant about some shoe box. What was this "shoe box" anyways?With less than 10 minutes having passed, a tea cup was place into my hands, and, anxiously, doing the only respectful thing; I drank it.

My attention snapped back to Raju when I heard the sum, $300USD, flowing so easily from his lips. At that moment, my stomach churned, not from the tea but from his amateur swindling efforts which began unfolding. It was all suddenly, so clear. Asking for a "gift", not money, because apparently Raju, my non-guide guide, was too proud to accept cash. But a "gift"; which just happened to be this $300USD shoe box, would supposedly, as Raju explained, set their lives in the right direction. Feeling compassion for his family, I offered him a small amount, but once again he spoke only of the "gift", but then unveiled a further "gift" option; milk for his daughter and other necessities. I became slightly miffed, though in keeping my best poker face, thought, this guy probably had a hand in writing Ocean's Eleven. I knew, due to his impoverished situation, Raju wasn't about to give up on his scheme. Slugging the last of my tea, we left for the store.

Arriving a few minutes later, I watched as he pointed to this and that, directing the shop keeper to his needs. The pile of supplies grew, and when presented with the final tally, I stared at Raju in disbelief. I gracefully declined his lovely offer of this second "gift" option and placed my gift of...$10USD into his hands, smiled and departed for the Holy River.

I'm sure as he stood there, watching my back disappearing down the road, Raju would have wondered how many times I had seen Ocean's Eleven.

Bouddhanath

Day 2

Met with my guide Anupam, and Subash, my porter to finalise the trek. The trekking company, run by Killi, a hardened Nepalese man, was located at his house. Once the details had been completed we enjoyed tea and snacks over a long conversation; it was quick to see what a kind soul Killi was. His accomplishments plentiful, having summit ed Everest and with numerous amounts of work with Nat Geo and Discovery, he remains so humble.

I spent the rest of the day going over my budget, taking a break to fill up with some Fish Tikka and a nice cold Everest beer.

That evening I bumped into Raju again, as I was headed to meet some friends for dinner, just cementing my guide theory. Knowing that day still gave me an experience, good or bad, I gave him a pleasant smile and continued on to Elva's hotel.
After meeting we walked around looking for a place to eat, finding the Thamel House Restaurant, quietly set in a courtyard, with traditional live music and dance. Candle lit only, the small hues of orange jumped off the very natural surroundings. A nice way to cap off a long day; possibly my last comforts for the next 12 days. Although her mom could only speak Mandarin, I really enjoyed their company; Elva translated much of our talking.

Day 3, 5:32am

Woke early wanting to give myself ample opportunity to lighten my self for the trek; those darn planes mess my system up every time!
10:13am Arrived in the Solukhumbu region, Lukla. A short flight from Kathmandu in a small plane, took us over the mountains and valleys, and finally a hard right bank through the valley had us landing on a very short and sloped runway set on the side of the mountain. It was comparable to landing a small model plane on a inclined treadmill. My heart skipped as the brakes grabbed and the whole plane pulled to the one side. 5 minutes later we were off the plane and another was landing-then another.


Phakding 2800m was reached by us at 4:45pm. After a long day of hiking and trying to pass Porters and Yaks through narrow stretches, we finally settled in at Namaste Lodge. The meal of Dal Baht(Rice,Curry and Lentils) and tea was needed after the good day of exercise, providing protein, carbohydrates and some nutrients from the vegetables. Having only two single beds, we put them together so my guys could sleep better.


Namche Bazaar.
Day 4, 6:51am

Had an awful sleep last night and in waking I still can't take a crap! Took down 2 fried eggs, 2 toast and milk tea(better than weak Nescafe), to get myself started for the trek to Namche Bazaar.

Met Anirban, a trekker from India this morning, and in sharing some stories he told me some great places to travel in his country. Nepal is his first solo mission so he had a lot of excitement.
Namche Bazaar 3480m. Arriving there at 3:42pm, we began to look for a place to stay but had to settle for a rather run down place. After putting my bags in the room, I began what would be my trekking routine for the remainder of the trip; wet wipes(for the body) and alcohol gel(for the feet).
The next day was a rest day or as they say, an "Acclimatisation day", which I was grateful for after the tough climb. Hiking across bridges suspended over green valleys and rivers provided a breather and some picturesque moments during the unforgiving 3 hour ascent.

With the change in altitude, came a change in temperature forcing me to purchased a long sleeved wind stopper. A dinner of Dal Bhat would be our meal of choice again.

Myself, Anupam, Subash
Day 5, 6:46am

The morning was very foggy in Namche as we led our way up the many stairs to the museum in our acclimatisation exercise for the day.
Returning, gave me the opportunity to take some pictures before retreating in a great coffee shop. Treating my guys, I too enjoyed a coffee and apple strudel while playing cards and relaxing.

The coffee and exercise did it's job, bringing a huge smile to my face.


Porters.

Day 6, 2:21pm

Sitting here at the bakery in Tengboche 3870m, with Anirban. I'm in complete awe, as we sit surrounded by snow capped mountains. A casual ascent took us the bulk of the way, followed by a knee thrashing descent and finally a "breathtaking" ascent was required to reach Tengboche.

A large wood stove was the centerpiece of the dining hall, lined with tables and padded bench seating, where we ate dinner. Packed full of trekkers that evening, the place was roasting and had me stripping off as much as I could get away with.

Anirban and I shared the room that night as accommodations were tight, while Anupam and Subash slept on the benches in the dining hall.

Day 7, 7:38am

I attempted to catch the sunrise, but slept through my alarm waking at 5:45. I only managed to catch a glimpse before preparing, for what would be an early start after breakfast.

9:34am I'm lost...
Around 10:00am, after two clicks in the wrong direction, I was reunited with my team. Frequently stopping to take pictures, I roam far ahead of them, not wanting to hold us up. After passing me this time and carrying on quite far ahead, trying to catch them, I zigged, while I should have zagged. By the time I found them, fatigue had set in so much, I could hardly make the last ascent to meet them. We settled in for some lunch and continued on to Dingboche.
12:55 Dingboche 4410m

Having come down with a flu the night before, the last part of the trip turned out to be one painful step at a time. My upper back felt like a nail was being pounded into it, causing me to take frequent stops. With all my energy having been completely sapped, I really didn't think I'd make it.

Day 8, 7:29am

Couldn't even make a journal entry last night. Getting into our room yesterday, I immediately laid down for a rest. My body was spent and even with a change of clothes and all the blankets over me, I lay shivering. Frustrated, I got up and went to wash some clothes and then did another short but taxing hike up a hill for acclimatisation. Arriving back at the room, even more exhausted and even a bit nauseated, I reluctantly ate half a bowl of Dal and drank some water.

I'm not feeling well; my self diagnosis, gas in my stomach from not crapping. Something about a rock and clay out house set in a field, makes it challenging. An inside squatter would be 5 star right now!! Am I asking for to much!?!

6:45pm Duglha 4620m. We got half way to Lobuje, but due to my poor state of health, we've decided to stay here for the night. Upon arrival, I was so spent, Anupam asked me if I would be ok to continue onwards after lunch. Prone on the bench, I snapped "No!!".
Sleeping solidly, I crashed out in the room for 4 hours only to wake up for dinner. The room was, I estimate 5x8 with one power saver light, having walls coated with a thin coat of white paint, dressed in a green golf Astroturf skirt for insulation.

The mushroom soup was fantastic(my favorite when I'm ill) and I managed a bonus C after that. Played some cards with the boys after dinner and packed it in.
Day 9, 6:04am

Great sleep!! 15 hours in total and feeling very refreshed. It was so cold last night my pen ink froze, making this morning journal entry very difficult. I managed to stay warm by sleeping in all my gear including gloves and an extra pair of socks.
9:25am Lobuje 4928m
We started our day with a slow but steady hike up the moraine, followed by a moderately flat traverse for an hour to Lobuje; the first time in two days that I actually enjoyed myself. At 10:30am after taking in some food, Anupam suggested we push on. Claiming to be a slow 3 hours but with no big ascents, I agreed eager to reach Gorak Shep.

During our lunch, I noticed a few locals looking at themselves in a tiny mirror, which hung off a wooden beam in the dining hall. Being in the mountains, my appearance was the furthest thing on my mind, but since the mirror was there...
Upon a quick examination, I was transforming into a mountain man; dirty fingernails, little cuts on my hands, oily hair, very bearded and extremely tanned. I had also been sucking on a garlic clove which helps prevent AMS(Acute Mountain Sickness) for the past few hours, so trying to get a date, even wit ha Yak at this point, might be a little out of the question.
Gorak Shep.

2:59pm Gorak Shep 5180m
Made it! The dormitory or the dining hall were our only choices for sleeping. There are no comforts regardless up here, so in choosing the dormitory it didn't really matter. We hung around the dining hall for sometime drinking tea and recouping from the Lobuje lag-my body was recovering well.

Anupam's grandfather had been sick and shortly after arriving there and a brief phone call later, he had learned of his passing. He was very upset and Subash and I feel sad for his loss.
Still trying to decide on Kala Pattar and EBC(Everest Base Camp) or just Kala Pattar. Not sure if I want to try and tackle both, being very taxing for one day.

Day 10, 6:31am

Subash woke up with a bad headache and wouldn't be accompanying us on the final ascent. To be safe we gave him Tylenol and left him there to rest. Kala Pattar is our only option now, as we need to start getting him down to a lower altitude.

10:21am and we have just returned from the Summit of Kala Pattar 5545m. Absolutely exhausted as we left prior to breakfast. The ascent was more-less what I had expected, being a summit, but this didn't make me feel any less tired. The last nights sleep was non existent, due to high altitude and a temperate 0 degree Celcius room, not aiding the energy factor. We did manage to ascend in 1.5 hours, an hour faster than the average, though I felt as though we were crawling as opposed to walking at points. Once we summit ed, there were about 20 other people up there, 20 minutes later, it was only Anupam and I remaining. We took a short silence for his grandpa and after taking in the view we started our descent.

Subash was feeling a bit better when we returned. I made sure to eat a really high carbohydrate lunch in order to prepare for the long days descent.

2:42pm Duglha
On the descent we ran into Anirban in Lobuje. He mentioned they would be going a long distance today. I'm feeling rather refreshed after a four wet wipe bath, the alcohol for the feet, some fresh socks, underwear and a dry shirt.

5:13pm in the dining hall and I just met Steve, Peter and Ian, all of whom live in Powell River and know grandma. What a small world!!

Day 11, 7:14am. Eating breakfast.


Mother and child with father off to the side repacking some gear.

4:16pm Sanasa
A long 8 hour descent/ascent, with only a stop for lunch has brought us here, to lovely little guest house, which I'm sure is just passed, by most trekkers. Our room has a window, which is framing the mountains and the moon; it should be a painting.
Highlighting my day, possibly even the trip, was a young family. Trekking on after lunch, we traversed our way along the mountain en route to the next village. It was at that moment, I came upon something so beautiful, so simple, yet so real. Fumbling for my camera, a mother and daughter stood before me, with the father nearby repacking their bags. The mother wearing a traditional headdress cradled her infant in mid afternoon sun.
After a short introduction, in a means to get a head start, she parted with us, leaving the father still packing the bags. It didn't take long for me to figure out how quick she was and in an attempt to keep pace...
We scrambled down the mountain, at times running, the descent frenetic. I could go no faster, yet it was the mother and child leading us down the steep gradient. Then, sure I was going to catch them, they veered off on a shortcut and once again seeing their route, knew I'd still be second. With Subash hot on my heels and the mother/daughter team ahead, a single thought entered my mind.

I would not be taking home this years gold medal at the Sherpa Olympics!

Finally she slowed to attend to the baby, and a minute later the father had reunited. Anupam had been talking with the father the whole way down and learned that they were taking their daughter to the hospital, needing 8 hours on foot. Intrigued, I began asking more questions; the father had once been a porter, being a very hard life he turned to woodworking. During our short conversation with Anupam translating, they smiled continuously, as they answered questions. A family visibly with very little, yet everything. Heartfelt, I reached into my pocket and gave them a small gift of money.

Anupam later told me...how happy they were for the gift.


6:19pm

Sitting in a bright cozy room with three tables lining the walls. A panoramic mountain view presents itself much like a mural, while a small wood stove centered in the room, cooks our Dal Bhat.
My clothes are sweat laden and strewn about the room trying to dry out, my fleece, the worst of the lot is spread across my legs in front of the wood stove.

We had a great home cooked meal accompanied with a glass of Chhyang(fermented rice wine), amongst some interesting company. While we ate, a 70 year old road worker spoke of how his wife is expecting a baby any day now. He has been building the roads for over 50 years now, financed by donations only.

Day 12, 6:33am. On our way to Namche.

9:34am we arrived at Namche Bazaar and got a place at Namaste Lodge, different than Phakding and not as nice. The trek over had been dusty and congested with Yaks, Ox and a lot of people. I passed the elderly road worker, making a donation as I went by.

Yak, Namche Bazaar.
10:42am Showered...
Trying to get the shampoo to lather in my greasy hair gave me plenty of time to think as I showered. After 12 days of being in the mountains my hair probably amassed enough grease to bottle and sell it, as fresh glacier oil. Potentially I could make millions...My sweaty shirt and sour socks were also thankful for the bar of soap.

Lazed around Namche that day sporting flip flops, having spent most of it playing cards in the Namche Coffee Shop. Not long after we sitting down, I heard the words "Hello my friend" play over my shoulder. It was Anirban, once again we crossed paths. The rest of the day went by sharing stories and enjoying the luxuries of the bakery. Learning of quite a few deaths, while we were in the mountains we felt quite lucky. Many people being air evacuated out by helicopters with some accidents and some instances of AMS.

Day 13, 6:28amOther than the pain still in my upper back, I feel great. Started today off with cinnamon porridge and an omelet in a chapati, washed down with a hot ginger/lemon tea.
11:25am we have now arrived back to Phakding, but this time at the sisters place See You, with Namaste Lodge being full.
After lunch we all sprawled out in the dining hall, playing cards and the guys took their turns showering. Enjoying the warmth of the sun beaming in through the glass, a afternoon siesta was also in order. The sister brought some terrible tea! Not wanting to be disrespectful, I drank two cups because she brought refills of the butter tea-liquid popcorn.

Day 14, 7:36am off to Lukla.
Our flight is for the next day but we are really trying to get out now. The guys told me that you can be stuck for days here if a heavy fog rolls in, with no flights going in or out.

2:56pmStill here, though promising. It's purely insane here, everyone's fighting to get tickets.

4:35 On the plane, after much doubt we would be flying with the fog really factoring. One airline-crashing three weeks ago canceled their flight, so I'm happy to be on the plane.

Anirban and I proceeded back to Thamel, where I managed a room in the same hotel. We grabbed dinner and drinks after that; one and a half bottles of beer and was completely smashed! Walking was tough for me and I was most grateful he helped me back with the alcohol having a very negative effect on me. The next day due to some flight problems, Anirban hastily rushed off for the airport en route to India.

I had envisioned staying at the iconic Kathmandu Guest House, but it was full for the next two weeks. So upon packing my gear, I headed to my second choice, the Ganesh Himal, with a large room and bathroom overlooking a gardened courtyard, it turned out to be a great choice. The staff was friendly and the GH had free internet on the ground level.

Took a gander, shooting around Thamel today. The Road House Cafe, an excellent choice of lunch, supplied my savory craving of pizza and salad, a nice change from Dal Bhat.

Later that day I finally met Santosh, the guide and cousin of Anupam whom I was first going to use. They took me around the main part of town and helped me buy a few things before heading off.
Chitwan

The next week was spent in Chitwan and Kathmandu. Chitwan, the animal reserve was expensive and a bit disappointing, though I didn't expect much from the beginning. I managed only to see a Rhino and a chicken, but the walks through the jungle were relaxing.

Upon arriving back to Kathmandu a strike had taken place. The bodies of two missing boys had been recovered and linked to a Maoist group. The government now headed by Maoist was under siege by a city wide protest. The protest continued into the next day before letting up.

Met with Anupam one last time in my last few days in Kathmandu. Having been invited to his house, his sister prepared, what would be my last meal of Dal Bhat for quite some time. Using all fresh ingredients it turned out to be a wonderful!

On day 21. To the airport.

I left Nepal that day, but Nepal has never left me.* special thanks to my friends Anupam, Subash and Santosh & of course Tin Tin.
** the rights for these images are reserved by davidREPhotography.