Cambodia
October 16, 2011
As with all the Southeastern Asian countries, comes constant development. Countries such as China, Japan, Korea among many others pump large amounts of money, help build infrastructure and provide aid the region which in turn creates a larger influx of tourism. So as I prepared, thirteen years having passed since my last trip to Angkor and still reflecting on it's un-feathered beauty- I really had no idea what to expect.
July 3, 2011 Day 01
Arriving into Siem Reap I waited about thirty minutes for my prearranged pickup to the Guest House before accepting the truth that my ride was not to be. Having waved the white flag, a 2 USD motorcycle ride is what eventually brought me to Tanei Guest House- complimented by a small pool it's appearance was enough to make up for my missed ride.
A walk around the Psar Chan market as well as Wat Preah Prom Roth is all the exploration I managed for the day. Some afternoon showers kept me doing research in a local coffee shop, finally completing the day with a jaunt alongside the canal. While snapping a few shots I was approached by a guy on the road claiming to run a school for underprivileged children looking for donations to purchase books. He was supplied with photos of the kids and too a collection booklet which the contributors had written the donation amount and some particulars. I gave a small donation, not sold entirely on his story and left hopeful that's where everyone's money would actually go.
9:08pm Still day 01
I'm enjoying a foot massage in a night market full of many different stalls, bamboo thatched bars and a tonne of foot massage/fish eating places. At 3-4 USD an hour I'll be getting a bit of foot loving this trip. Heading back to the GH after this for a good night's rest- tomorrow joining Scott & Rachel a honeymoon couple I'd met earlier, for a trip out to Angkor.
6:55am Day 02
Slept well enough last night having woken before my alarm, which I hope is enough rest to get me through what is going to be a very hot day. Angkor here I come!!
5:26pm
The morning took us to a few smaller temples before finally arriving at Ta Prohm, the most prominent temple still etched in my mind from 1999. Parts of the temple were strewn across the outer temple grounds leading up, each with an assigned code. Approaching the entrance flashes of excitement were quickly overshadowed by the horror of development. What once had a feeling of exploration, climbing over giant fallen rock under overrun massive silk-cotton and fig trees now felt like a museum, fitted with a wooden walkway and signs. Many of the other temples were laden with scaffold making an unobstructed wide shot impossible which really got me thinking how I was going to photograph anything.
7:09am Day 03
Just down for breakfast attempting to formulate a plan for today...probably back out to Angkor for a four hour trip(that's the half day rate for the Tuk Tuk) and another gander around town.
9:53am
On a day trip with Peter...
11:39am
During breakie I started talking with Peter, a fellow photographer from Melbourne. After breakfast adjourned he invited me to join on a trip to Kbal Speam about 50 km out of Siem Reap, which is where we are now. Sharing a Tuk Tuk we drove to Banteay Srei, a temple renown for it's majestic art- a sheer amount of stunning, detail filled carvings for such a small temple.
8:40am Day 05
Continuing from yesterday...arriving at Kbal Speam we sat down for some lunch before setting off on the short hike to the"River of a Thousand Lingas". Even in the shaded woods we found little reprieve from the scorching heat but not long after photographing Hindu deities as well an abundance of linga did we reach the treasure at the end of the rainbow...a nice waterfall. We had a good rest and rinse off and began the return which included one stop at Banteay Kdei- a temple I'd visited the previous day, though today with a much greater appreciation.
4:55pm
Hiding from the afternoon sun after a three plus hour walk around town. I could really get used to this loungy coffee shop- it's a great place to read and write during the hot afternoon. Accompanying me for part of the day was Syraha, whom I'd met with her partner(who was sick today) yesterday. Having expressed a strong interest in photography I gave her some quick lessons as we roamed the grounds of Wat Preah Prom Roth and on the walk back to the Blue Pumpkin.
8:13pm
Back to this really good BBQ spot, really tasty meat and seafood, fresh salad and a beer for about 5-6USD. After this it's back to my room for a 4:00am wake-up and off to Angkor for sunrise. Peter is floating market bound tomorrow but with my days in SR winding down it's my only opportunity to get this scaffold free (using shadows to cover them) shot.
9:58am Day 06
Arriving in the pitch black (no torch=no vision) I began to explore the grounds for a good vantage point which eventually took me back to the front moat- the most notable view for sunrise. During my search I found myself, completely alone clambering around the dark echoey confines of Angkor. Racing against time and having enjoyed my brief time as a character out of a Harry Potter movie, it was time to get back to the moat. An hour later, content with my work, the sky having offered some interesting clouds, I packed my gear and headed for Bayon.
Ahhh peace... I managed an hour alone before Bayon was over run, which gave me plenty of time to get some good imagery.
11:22pm
Just returned back to my room from an afternoon spent in the coffee shop, a dinner with Peter planning tomorrow's adventures and finally a massage. It's time for bed...
6:31am Day 07
Having a quick bit with Peter before we take off.
10:47pm
Peter and I departed at 7:30 en route firstly for Beng Mealea then finishing the day in Kompong Kleang, also known as the stilt villages. Pulling up to Beng Mealea had the reverse affect on my psyche as Ta Prohm, at first sight the large temple stones mimed a snow bluff. When we got inside, it was like Ta Prohm thirteen years ago- only better.
Continuing, we then pointed our compasses for Kompong Kleang (known for the stilt villages). Arriving there I was not disappointed, having bypassed the first village we drove down the narrow road linking a second where we would begin. The people there did not seem overly friendly but warmed slightly as we wandered around while conversing in a universal language with the children. Tracing the rich orange soiled road we wound our way back up towards the first village, the houses standing 3m above the road from the lower village gradually leveled off as we ascended. People from the first village seemed much friendlier, either because they are less impoverished are perhaps they just see more tourists- All I did know, is that the photography was amazing!
11:03pm Day Day 08
Today was a solo mission. A relaxing but productive day had me capturing some portraits of the ladies in Wat Preah Prom, perusing images of Angkor in a gallery, resting at my most frequented cafe (The Blue Pumpkin), booking my bus to Ban Lung in the North East and organising tomorrows trip to Kompong Kleang. Peter and I met to discuss our boat trip to Kompong Kleang, another stilt village for tomorrow before I headed back to the GH.
12:51 Day 09
Back at the Blue Pumpkin, this time with Peter catching a lunch time break from the heat. The adventure to Kompong Kleang was well worth the trip, offering a much different perspective, the stilts reached up to 10 meters with probably only 1 meter under water- the wet season is very much in contrast, water reaching just under the floorboards. Other than a crabby boat captain (he didn't want to make two rounds) we had a smooth trip and managed some interesting photography.
4:45am Day 10
Last night finished off with a brew over a few games of pool. I'm now doing last minute preparations before catching my bus to Ban Lung.
6:24pm Ban Lung
The bus took 12 hours to reach, a bit off the time of 8-9 which they told me though I can't say I'm at all surprised. A number of travelers kept me engaged for the duration of the ride so when I finally did make it to the Tree Top Eco Lodge I felt quite refreshed. The lodge is very calming, set in the trees with wooden walkways leading to the rooms and a view looking out above the tree tops across the valley.
7:01am Day 11
Awoke at 6:30am this morning hoping to get some undisturbed shots around the GH which I managed without any problems. It's overcast today and noticeably cooler. I'm sitting here on the terrace holding a cheese omelet stuffed baguette in one hand, pen in the other pondering what my time here will be like.
3:45pm
Earlier I took a trip to Svay and Krala Village which offered nothing in the way of photography. Other than information about the tribes there was no documentary photography other than a few shots around the villages. This was mostly due to torrential down pour and the one person I did want to photograph was camera shy- my shady guide didn't help matters either...
During the ride on the back of the bike, about 2 km outside Svay we got hit by a serious monsoon which by the time we reached the village all my clothes needed to be rung out- luckily my camera bag was still moderately dry. The continuation out to Krala Village was something to behold as we rode up and down these roads packed with red clay. Being from Canada I've done my fair share of skating but riding a bike on a icy surface felt a little dangerous considering the frequent 180 degree spin outs we began. Approaching a steep hill I hopped off, with each step another layer of clay attached to the bottom of my shoes causing many stoppages, in my attempt to remove mud from my elephant sized feet. Having a helmet allowed me to feel safe enough on the back of the bike, saving me some pain in the ass walks.
11:03pm
This afternoon was spent at the GH, talking with a Anita. Originally from Switzerland she had been traveling for a couple of months between Cambodia and Vietnam with still one month remaining on her trip. We spoke until Peter arrived in the early evening, then discussing tomorrows plans over a few beer.
5:56am Day 12
Off to the market with Peter and Anita. Looks like I'll be wearing wet gear, with the humidity being so high none of my things(shoes, socks, shorts) dried properly last night.
6:01pm
Wow!! We just got back to the GH and the skies just opened up- looks the same as what I was in yesterday. The morning market had Cambodian's and some tribal people which carried my shooting on for around two hours before a stop for some flavorful street food. Leaving the market we grabbed some bikes and headed for Crater Lake (Boeng Yeak Lom), about 5 km out of town. Upon viewing the lush green vegetation surrounding the beautiful circular lake made it impossible for me not to jump in- what a fantastic idea that was!
7:35am Day 12
Mulling over our plan at breakfast right now, the rain coming in sheets. Our arranged 4x4 has be cancelled, our guide (the same dodgy one I had before) has told us that the driver says it's to hard to go. Wait for this...He said he will take us in a car. I thought "Car- are you crazy!?!?!", the motorcycle was already a joke and now he was suggesting a car!! After expressing these thoughts to Peter and Anita we decided against the trip forcing us to come up with a new plan. A while later still conversing, the owner of the GH came to us and said he could get us a 4x4, which by this time we had already decided to leave for Kratie and get out of this torrential rain.
3:34pm Kratie
The ride to Kratie was not fun!! Two and a half hours stuffed in the back of a mini van, get bounced with every one of the 500 potholes we drove through. If that wasn't bad enough, we made a stop for some illegal teak wood which was loaded lengthwise under our seats in turn bringing our knees up to a very uncomfortable level. The only good thing about this ride is that it cuts tomorrows return to Siem Reap drastically.
6:15pm
After check-in and arranging tomorrow's transport we then decided on the Freshwater Dolphin Expedition which included a 30 minute Tuk Tuk ride followed by a 1 hour boat. A fast rolling storm had us speeding for the shore but not before spotting a few dolphin during our time out.
We said our goodbye's over a very average dinner, Peter en route to Phnom Penh, Anita staying on here a few more days and myself- Siem Reap.
1:12pm Day 13
Great luxury bus ride with the god's trying to make up for yesterday, gifting me the middle seat in the back with leg room to spare. Working air conditioning, a bag of fruit and a couple very cute kids on either side had me even happier.
6:10pm
Got in to the bus terminal about 5km from town, dropped my gear back at the GH with a short Tuk Tuk ride and headed for the Blue Pumpkin, spending a couple of hours over some yummy fresh spring rolls.
Tomorrow is the end of this journey but two weeks full of adventures and photography has wet my appetite for my return- I'm not sure when, only that it won't be 13 years from now!
A walk around the Psar Chan market as well as Wat Preah Prom Roth is all the exploration I managed for the day. Some afternoon showers kept me doing research in a local coffee shop, finally completing the day with a jaunt alongside the canal. While snapping a few shots I was approached by a guy on the road claiming to run a school for underprivileged children looking for donations to purchase books. He was supplied with photos of the kids and too a collection booklet which the contributors had written the donation amount and some particulars. I gave a small donation, not sold entirely on his story and left hopeful that's where everyone's money would actually go.
9:08pm Still day 01
I'm enjoying a foot massage in a night market full of many different stalls, bamboo thatched bars and a tonne of foot massage/fish eating places. At 3-4 USD an hour I'll be getting a bit of foot loving this trip. Heading back to the GH after this for a good night's rest- tomorrow joining Scott & Rachel a honeymoon couple I'd met earlier, for a trip out to Angkor.
6:55am Day 02
Slept well enough last night having woken before my alarm, which I hope is enough rest to get me through what is going to be a very hot day. Angkor here I come!!
5:26pm
The morning took us to a few smaller temples before finally arriving at Ta Prohm, the most prominent temple still etched in my mind from 1999. Parts of the temple were strewn across the outer temple grounds leading up, each with an assigned code. Approaching the entrance flashes of excitement were quickly overshadowed by the horror of development. What once had a feeling of exploration, climbing over giant fallen rock under overrun massive silk-cotton and fig trees now felt like a museum, fitted with a wooden walkway and signs. Many of the other temples were laden with scaffold making an unobstructed wide shot impossible which really got me thinking how I was going to photograph anything.
 |
| Afternoon Lunch of Fish Amok |
Just down for breakfast attempting to formulate a plan for today...probably back out to Angkor for a four hour trip(that's the half day rate for the Tuk Tuk) and another gander around town.
9:53am
On a day trip with Peter...
11:39am
During breakie I started talking with Peter, a fellow photographer from Melbourne. After breakfast adjourned he invited me to join on a trip to Kbal Speam about 50 km out of Siem Reap, which is where we are now. Sharing a Tuk Tuk we drove to Banteay Srei, a temple renown for it's majestic art- a sheer amount of stunning, detail filled carvings for such a small temple.
8:40am Day 05
Continuing from yesterday...arriving at Kbal Speam we sat down for some lunch before setting off on the short hike to the"River of a Thousand Lingas". Even in the shaded woods we found little reprieve from the scorching heat but not long after photographing Hindu deities as well an abundance of linga did we reach the treasure at the end of the rainbow...a nice waterfall. We had a good rest and rinse off and began the return which included one stop at Banteay Kdei- a temple I'd visited the previous day, though today with a much greater appreciation.
 |
| Hindu Carving |
 |
| Linga |
Hiding from the afternoon sun after a three plus hour walk around town. I could really get used to this loungy coffee shop- it's a great place to read and write during the hot afternoon. Accompanying me for part of the day was Syraha, whom I'd met with her partner(who was sick today) yesterday. Having expressed a strong interest in photography I gave her some quick lessons as we roamed the grounds of Wat Preah Prom Roth and on the walk back to the Blue Pumpkin.
8:13pm
Back to this really good BBQ spot, really tasty meat and seafood, fresh salad and a beer for about 5-6USD. After this it's back to my room for a 4:00am wake-up and off to Angkor for sunrise. Peter is floating market bound tomorrow but with my days in SR winding down it's my only opportunity to get this scaffold free (using shadows to cover them) shot.
 | |
| BBQ, Siem Reap |
 |
| BBQ, Siem Reap |
9:58am Day 06
Arriving in the pitch black (no torch=no vision) I began to explore the grounds for a good vantage point which eventually took me back to the front moat- the most notable view for sunrise. During my search I found myself, completely alone clambering around the dark echoey confines of Angkor. Racing against time and having enjoyed my brief time as a character out of a Harry Potter movie, it was time to get back to the moat. An hour later, content with my work, the sky having offered some interesting clouds, I packed my gear and headed for Bayon.
Ahhh peace... I managed an hour alone before Bayon was over run, which gave me plenty of time to get some good imagery.
Just returned back to my room from an afternoon spent in the coffee shop, a dinner with Peter planning tomorrow's adventures and finally a massage. It's time for bed...
6:31am Day 07
Having a quick bit with Peter before we take off.
10:47pm
Peter and I departed at 7:30 en route firstly for Beng Mealea then finishing the day in Kompong Kleang, also known as the stilt villages. Pulling up to Beng Mealea had the reverse affect on my psyche as Ta Prohm, at first sight the large temple stones mimed a snow bluff. When we got inside, it was like Ta Prohm thirteen years ago- only better.
 |
| Beng Mealea |
 |
| Beng Mealea |
 |
| Beng Mealea |
 |
| Kompong Kleang |
11:03pm Day Day 08
Today was a solo mission. A relaxing but productive day had me capturing some portraits of the ladies in Wat Preah Prom, perusing images of Angkor in a gallery, resting at my most frequented cafe (The Blue Pumpkin), booking my bus to Ban Lung in the North East and organising tomorrows trip to Kompong Kleang. Peter and I met to discuss our boat trip to Kompong Kleang, another stilt village for tomorrow before I headed back to the GH.
12:51 Day 09
Back at the Blue Pumpkin, this time with Peter catching a lunch time break from the heat. The adventure to Kompong Kleang was well worth the trip, offering a much different perspective, the stilts reached up to 10 meters with probably only 1 meter under water- the wet season is very much in contrast, water reaching just under the floorboards. Other than a crabby boat captain (he didn't want to make two rounds) we had a smooth trip and managed some interesting photography.
4:45am Day 10
Last night finished off with a brew over a few games of pool. I'm now doing last minute preparations before catching my bus to Ban Lung.
6:24pm Ban Lung
The bus took 12 hours to reach, a bit off the time of 8-9 which they told me though I can't say I'm at all surprised. A number of travelers kept me engaged for the duration of the ride so when I finally did make it to the Tree Top Eco Lodge I felt quite refreshed. The lodge is very calming, set in the trees with wooden walkways leading to the rooms and a view looking out above the tree tops across the valley. 7:01am Day 11
Awoke at 6:30am this morning hoping to get some undisturbed shots around the GH which I managed without any problems. It's overcast today and noticeably cooler. I'm sitting here on the terrace holding a cheese omelet stuffed baguette in one hand, pen in the other pondering what my time here will be like.
3:45pm
Earlier I took a trip to Svay and Krala Village which offered nothing in the way of photography. Other than information about the tribes there was no documentary photography other than a few shots around the villages. This was mostly due to torrential down pour and the one person I did want to photograph was camera shy- my shady guide didn't help matters either...
During the ride on the back of the bike, about 2 km outside Svay we got hit by a serious monsoon which by the time we reached the village all my clothes needed to be rung out- luckily my camera bag was still moderately dry. The continuation out to Krala Village was something to behold as we rode up and down these roads packed with red clay. Being from Canada I've done my fair share of skating but riding a bike on a icy surface felt a little dangerous considering the frequent 180 degree spin outs we began. Approaching a steep hill I hopped off, with each step another layer of clay attached to the bottom of my shoes causing many stoppages, in my attempt to remove mud from my elephant sized feet. Having a helmet allowed me to feel safe enough on the back of the bike, saving me some pain in the ass walks.
11:03pm
This afternoon was spent at the GH, talking with a Anita. Originally from Switzerland she had been traveling for a couple of months between Cambodia and Vietnam with still one month remaining on her trip. We spoke until Peter arrived in the early evening, then discussing tomorrows plans over a few beer.
5:56am Day 12
Off to the market with Peter and Anita. Looks like I'll be wearing wet gear, with the humidity being so high none of my things(shoes, socks, shorts) dried properly last night.
6:01pm
Wow!! We just got back to the GH and the skies just opened up- looks the same as what I was in yesterday. The morning market had Cambodian's and some tribal people which carried my shooting on for around two hours before a stop for some flavorful street food. Leaving the market we grabbed some bikes and headed for Crater Lake (Boeng Yeak Lom), about 5 km out of town. Upon viewing the lush green vegetation surrounding the beautiful circular lake made it impossible for me not to jump in- what a fantastic idea that was!
 |
| Crater Lake in Ban Lung |
Mulling over our plan at breakfast right now, the rain coming in sheets. Our arranged 4x4 has be cancelled, our guide (the same dodgy one I had before) has told us that the driver says it's to hard to go. Wait for this...He said he will take us in a car. I thought "Car- are you crazy!?!?!", the motorcycle was already a joke and now he was suggesting a car!! After expressing these thoughts to Peter and Anita we decided against the trip forcing us to come up with a new plan. A while later still conversing, the owner of the GH came to us and said he could get us a 4x4, which by this time we had already decided to leave for Kratie and get out of this torrential rain.
3:34pm Kratie
The ride to Kratie was not fun!! Two and a half hours stuffed in the back of a mini van, get bounced with every one of the 500 potholes we drove through. If that wasn't bad enough, we made a stop for some illegal teak wood which was loaded lengthwise under our seats in turn bringing our knees up to a very uncomfortable level. The only good thing about this ride is that it cuts tomorrows return to Siem Reap drastically.
After check-in and arranging tomorrow's transport we then decided on the Freshwater Dolphin Expedition which included a 30 minute Tuk Tuk ride followed by a 1 hour boat. A fast rolling storm had us speeding for the shore but not before spotting a few dolphin during our time out.
We said our goodbye's over a very average dinner, Peter en route to Phnom Penh, Anita staying on here a few more days and myself- Siem Reap.
1:12pm Day 13
Great luxury bus ride with the god's trying to make up for yesterday, gifting me the middle seat in the back with leg room to spare. Working air conditioning, a bag of fruit and a couple very cute kids on either side had me even happier.
6:10pm
Got in to the bus terminal about 5km from town, dropped my gear back at the GH with a short Tuk Tuk ride and headed for the Blue Pumpkin, spending a couple of hours over some yummy fresh spring rolls.
Tomorrow is the end of this journey but two weeks full of adventures and photography has wet my appetite for my return- I'm not sure when, only that it won't be 13 years from now!
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