Tuesday, June 5, 2012

Vietnam 2011


Vietnam
October 16, 2011


A planned trip with my friends in Vietnam was reinvented upon meeting my friend Trang, a half hour after my arrival to Ho Chi Minh. Designed originally to travel south for the floods in the Mekong Delta, the itinerary changed with the government denying tourists access to the region, so this trip would turn into a fleeting "fly by the seat of your pants" adventure taking us to Hoi An, halfway up the coast and back in one week.

 5:00pm Ho Chi Minh Airport
Waiting with about a hundred other people in the visa on arrival area. What seemed like a good idea from the Hong Kong side, seems a bit dismal now- not that I really had a choice anyways due to the late decision to travel. Hopefully Trang isn't waiting to long for me...

 8:48pm
The visa ended up taking a mere 23 minutes with shock outweighing my delight- Trang on the other hand was waiting an hour and a half for me. On the drive back to HCMC was my first time hearing the news of the cancelled trip to the south, so when Trang suggested we travel north to Hoi An, I thought it was as good idea as any. Now with no real purpose to head into the city I proposed we catch a train that night, not only saving money but more importantly- time. On board with this idea we made a quick stop by her house to gather her gear, grabbed a bite next door and made for the station.

5:57am Day 02
The Good the Bad and the Ugly described my erratic sleep last night. The seats almost fully reclined which was decent for the back but because of the seat in front, not so good for my legs. Being made for people of a smaller size there was no room to shift so at one point I woke with my neck so stiff I could hardly move my head. Luckily after a quick rummage through my pack, finding my small cylindrical sleeping bag the problem was solved.

3:59pm Hoi An
We found the Sanh Hien Family Guest House without a problem- Trang having stayed there once before. The room was quaint with two beds and cost friendly at 15 USD per night, which split according to my math was 7USD. Showers and toilets were clean, set outside in the back.

Since meeting Trang and my other Vietnamese friends in Laos a couple years back, I have managed to meet with them on a couple of previous occasions but his was the first time Trang and I travelled alone together so neither of us were so sure how we would get along- especially in a room together.

5:56pm
A late afternoon coffee had us sitting alongside an abnormally high river, which due to the recent heavy rainfall was about 3 meters up from this morning now entirely covering the walkway. Earlier while perusing this really small town I had come across a few images from a previous flood where the water reached the heart of Hoi An- very visual with boats navigating the old narrow streets with the backdrops of old heritage buildings.


Hu Tieu
 9:17pm
A perfect end to the day with a bowl of Cao Lau (Local noodle found only in Hoi An) as well a Hu Tieu, another noodle taken either dry or in a soup.  

Two more days would follow in Hoi An with us usually spending time to explore, especially through the plethora of tiny, textured infused alleys. When there would be some periodic heavy rainfall, we would take shelter either in a restaurant or a small photography guild which we stumbled upon.
White Rose Dumplings

7:05pm Day 04
Now on the sleeper bus...yes a sleeper bus!- I couldn't be happier right now. Preparing for the long drive south to Phan Rang, we found some yummy baguettes with the help of our guild friend's, who also loaded us up with some local snacks for the long journey.

12:22 Day 05 Phan Rang
In our room now after checking into Mosquito Guest House... after about 20 kills with the borrowed electronic tennis racket the room is finally habitable. 
Today we will be accompanied by Mr. Ju our contact here, visiting a pottery shop and a sheep farm- tomorrow we will head to the desert (glorified sand dunes) and visit a couple villages.


8:28pm
After a nice little adventure on motorbikes with Mr. Ju we decided to treat him to a nice chicken/rice dinner. The pottery factory made for a few interesting shots but the real adventure came out in the hills, riding along country roads and even through ditches. The one to mention had me stuck in two feet of mud- deep enough that Mr. Ju had top help me pull the bike out!

1:31pm Day 06
On the bus en-route to Phan Thiet, our last stop before the trip back to HCMC. Yesterday turned out to be a great day, arriving to the desert before sunrise we photographed some boys riding buffalo across one of the ridges as the sun rose. Very much in contrast with the weather in Hoi An- this weather could not have been more perfect. 
Stopping for a visit with the locals on the ways back was a big highlight of my day. After asking to photograph the couple (both in their 70's), the lady said to Trang that she always wanted a nice portrait of the both of them but could never afford it. So after hearing this it was really my pleasure to give them just that. 


Lovely couple in Phan Rang.
11:04pm Phan Thiet
After checking into what seemed a luxury hotel, a third floor room with the terrace looking out to the ocean, we met briefly with our contact there before enjoying a BBQ beach side.

We've arrange to have kids sledding on the the dunes tomorrow and I have no idea what to expect...

4:42am Day 07
Woke up checking for bites having had such a terrible sleep last night but other than a few on my feet there was nothing out of the ordinary.

Day seven turned out to be a very eventful day, starting early we rode out to the dunes to photograph the sand sledding. The weather was perfect as it was in Phan Rang and as the sun rose and the shadows laid down across the dunes, this large playground turned magical. The kids were exhausted when we finished having run along ridges, sledding down and running back up. With no shelter from the sun and a little sledding myself, I too was worn out.

Leaving the desert we filled our bellies with a bowl of street noodles then rode out to a nearby fishing village. By that time with the sun directly overhead so we kept the time there short heading back to the hotel for a reprieve.

Just prior to our departure we once again met with our photographer friend over a coffee, eager to show us some of his work over the years in the dunes. It turned out to be a very emotional conversation as he told us about some difficult parts in his life. I always meet some great people on the road and he's a great guy.

Off to catch a bus for Bin Hoa. We have been invited for dinner and to with our friend Tu Luc, his wife and three kids for the night .

 10:38am Day 08
Starting from the trip last night...attempting to catch a mini van alongside the highway seemed fruitless. While mulling over our options (already terribly late for dinner), to our delight a mini van pulled over and still on the roll, ushered us in. Three hours later with one thirty minute stop and having dodged death numerous times we were at Tu Luc's house, greeted not only by his family but also our other friends, Jin and Viet. It would turn out to be a wonderful night over a massive feast and no better way to end a trip.

Now at the airport awaiting my flight to HK.




Please visit my website http://davidrephotography.4ormat.com/

No comments: